Since the Middle Ages, the perception of a blanched loaf as more exclusive than a darker one, though the latter is typically more nourishing, has been hard to shake.
The invention of the iron roller mill in 19th-century Hungary made the process of beating all color, and nutrition, out of wheat easier and white bread cheaper.
Still, the devaluing of whole grains continued, explained the Berlin-based American baker Laurel Kratochvila, 39, recently.
“The 20th century was a very bad time for bread,” she said.
“Be very wary of the perfect white loaf,” Kratochvila said, arching one eyebrow.