There is perhaps no Zoom meeting less satisfying than one scheduled on a cold weekday morning to talk about food — specifically, the food that one ought to eat in Paris. And so was the Paris culinary scene, driven by that thrilling hunt for places both new and old, French and not, an obsession among natives and tourists alike. As with a similar list we made for New York — and as part of our ongoing T 25 series, which has surfaced significant and memorable travel destinations, buildings, interiors, art, fashion and books — we wanted to name the essential Parisian dishes to eat right now. The final list, which appears in unranked alphabetical order below and covers most arrondissements, isn’t what we expected, nor is it like the myriad Parisian food rankings we’ve all encountered before. Above all, it speaks to the fact that great food — particularly in Paris, particularly right now — looks forward and backward at once: That’s what makes eating there (and debating where to eat there) so deliciously freewheeling.

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Persons: I’d, Dominique Ansel, Dorie Greenspan, Moko Hirayama, Omar Koreitem, Aude, Mercerie, Daniel Rose, Jessica Yang, Pierre Hermé, chou, — Kurt Soller Organizations: New York Locations: Paris, New, 11th, Marie, America, France, Italy, Africa, Asia, Philippines