I wanted to taste a descendant of those ancient peppers, Peru’s native ají amarillo. Now it was time to learn how this distillation of ají amarillo manifested in local dishes. I felt as if this might be the closest I’d yet come to really tasting ají amarillo, its frank optimism, its essence as a fruit. The ají amarillo sauce was frozen into a shimmery yellow dust that turned to leche de tigre on the plate. Then came the soup, made of ají amarillo gone long on the stove with fish stock and fermented corn.

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Persons: We’ve, chiles, jolokias, Chiles, amarillo, Lomo, Nicholas Gill, ceviche, Papacho, Rocio Cuba, Pisco Sours, midthrash, couldn’t, Maido, Mitsuharu Tsumura, Tsumura, leche, Ligaya, Luisa Dörr Organizations: chiles, Chorrillos, T Magazine Locations: Peru, Scotch, habaneros, Trinidad, South America, Andes, amarillo, Lima, Spanish, ají, leche, tigre, leche de tigre, La, jaladito, Brazilian, Bahia