But in New York, the challenge will be replicating the quality of ingredients that Roscioli is known for, not only in its pastas but also on its plates of exceptionally fresh cheeses like burrata, buffalo mozzarella and buffalo ricotta, and cured meats like mortadella and prosciutto — few of which can be served in the United States. Fresh cheeses made from raw milk can’t be imported at all, though aged cheeses like Pecorino Romano can be. “The winds keep changing,” said Zach Allen, who has overseen food imports at the U.S. locations of Eataly and the fast-growing Florentine sandwich chain All’Antico Vinaio. “The imports used to be so heat-treated and over-cured that they didn’t taste anything like the original,” he said, referring to regulations imposed by the U.S. Department of Agriculture on cured meatsOver decades, Mr. Allen has painstakingly developed relationships and recipes with U.S. producers who make what he needs, like a fatty, fennel-spiked Tuscan salami called sbriciolona for La Favolosa, a top-selling sandwich at the New York locations of All’Antico. “The Rosciolis are at the very beginning of that process.”

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Persons: ”, Zach Allen, Allen, La Organizations: U.S . Department of Agriculture Locations: New York, United States, U.S, Eataly, York, All’Antico