As The New York Times’s restaurant critic for the last dozen years, Pete Wells has reported from the dining-room trenches on a changing industry. Pete has explored the five boroughs and far beyond, as the Food desk’s coverage of restaurants widened its scope. He noted the rise in food halls in New York, and the city’s vast wealth of Chinese restaurants. (If you’re curious about his process, listen to him on this episode of “The Daily” and learn why he always packs a notebook.) Wong, ★★, 2012His first column as restaurant critic took him to an Asian fusion restaurant from the chef Simpson Wong, where the duck-fat ice cream and duck-tongue meatballs brought smiles of pleasant surprise.

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Persons: Pete Wells, Pete, Wong, ★ ★, Simpson Wong Locations: York, New York