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☆ Roasted Salmon With Peas and Radishes, Hasselback Kielbasa With Jalapeño Honey
▼ + stars: | 2024-07-21 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: 1 min

Real talk on a Sunday: “Foodie” is a smug, unpleasant word, a diminutive, patronizing expression that reduces a person’s keen interest in the delicious to a silly fascination with cooking and eating. “Foodie” is condescension wrapped in affectionate disdain, even for those who embrace the identity. We should all experience the freedom to cook whatever we want to cook, however we want to cook it, without judgment. Like, for instance, this roasted salmon with peas and radishes. It profiles as superfancy, exactly the sort of dish you’d expect a foodie to cook on the weekend, with its pretty pinks and greens and oranges and its fragrantly nutty, miso-amped sauce.

☆ Food May Be the Last Thing on Your Mind
▼ + stars: | 2024-07-14 | by ( Sam Sifton | More About Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

We scroll our feeds, read endlessly, watch media people talk and talk and talk, listen to them opine. We anger and worry, mourn and resolve, and then return to the scrolling, the reading, the listening. Food doesn’t obviously have a role in our understanding of events playing out on the world stage. We process news together, around tables, in the presence of those we feed, with whom we eat. And when the food on those tables is made with care and served with affection, it has a palliative effect on the psyches of all who consume it.

☆ A Perfect Peach Pie That’s ‘Better Than My Mom’s’
▼ + stars: | 2024-07-07 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

There’s a road near where I stay that’s lined with orchards, and when the peaches get ripe there I like to drive it with the windows open. In the meantime, I’ll be looking to Georgia, where the crop’s bouncing back from a disastrous, frost-ruined 2023 season. A dozen ripe Georgia peaches in a paper sack? Cut one more for lunch: a tomato and peach salad with whipped goat cheese. And then, of course, you should make a perfect peach pie (above).

Persons: I’ll, It’s Locations: There’s, Georgia

☆ Skirt Steak, Long Sunday
▼ + stars: | 2024-06-30 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

There’s a famous New York City dream where you discover an extra room in your apartment and it changes your life, at least until you get used to having the space. I experienced a version of that in my waking life recently. I arose early, showered, got dressed and made to head off to work. What to make for dinner on such a charmed and unexpected day? Skirt steak with salsa verde salad (above), please, the meat grilled rare and the hearts of romaine just singed at the edges.

Persons: There’s, “, romaine, capers Locations: New York City

☆ A Recipe for Cooks Who Love to Poke at the Grill
▼ + stars: | 2024-06-23 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

I’ve been cooking outside as much as I can these last few weeks, turning meats and vegetables over fire. Sometimes the fuel is wood, other times charcoal, many times propane. I ran into one family coming up from the park after dinner with a kettle grill mounted to a pushcart from the local grocery store. They’d made burgers, they said, and would be back the next night to make ribs. Cook wherever I want.”Here’s a recipe for him, then, and for anyone cooking in a park or at a campsite, on a patio, fire escape, deck or sidewalk: huli huli chicken (above), a taste of Hawaii wherever you stay.

Persons: I’m, Cook Organizations: pushcart Locations: Hawaii

☆ Buttermilk Fried Chicken, a Dad’s Gift to Himself
▼ + stars: | 2024-06-16 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Good morning. We stand on the boat, on a platform at the stern or on the softening deck in the bow, and we look. Sometimes the fish come, sliding around happy in the middle of the outgoing tide: Cast! Other times they don’t, and eyes move up: an osprey, a wisp of cloud, a bald eagle, a flapping flag on a pole a mile away, an oystercatcher, a jetliner inbound from Europe, terns, oak trees, a congregation of glossy ibises flapping into a wedge above the marsh. All this but my thoughts run, mostly, to dinner: the chicken I’ve got resting in a buttermilk bath for fried chicken (above), a father’s gift to himself, my favorite fried chicken recipe, hard-won over time.

Persons: It’s, Ethan Allen Locations: Europe

☆ Make Maangchi’s Bulgogi
▼ + stars: | 2024-06-09 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: 1 min

Good morning. I once spent an excellent summer day cooking in a Montauk condominium with the Korean cooking star Maangchi, who had rented the place for a vacation but still found time to help me understand the intricacies of cheese buldak, or fire chicken. It’s a recipe that I love and that I commend to you always, but it’s not the Maangchi recipe I turn to most often in the summer months. That would be her instructions for bulgogi (above), the beloved Korean barbecue dish that you can make inside or out and either way deliver deliciousness to the table, to serve with lettuce for wrapping, herbs, ssamjang, kimchi and steamed rice. I especially like it on Sundays, when I can slice the meat in the morning after breakfast and keep it in the marinade all day.

Persons: it’s Locations: Montauk

☆ Grilled Soy-Basted Chicken With Spicy Cashews, a Five-Star Reader Favorite
▼ + stars: | 2024-06-02 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Good morning. I used the book to practice and then to master (maybe?) the art of American grilling, and the confidence it gave me eventually allowed me to stray from the recipes, to adapt them and eventually to make them my own. This recipe for grilled soy-basted chicken thighs with spicy cashews (above) is one of my favorite examples, an adaptation of an appetizer dish that Schlesinger and Willoughby developed at the turn of the century. The skinless meat browns beautifully over a medium flame and a basting of gingery soy sauce and brown sugar lacquers it beautifully at the end.

Persons: Julie Powell, Julia Child’s “, Chris Schlesinger, John Willoughby’s “, Schlesinger, Willoughby Organizations: Flames

☆ Korean Fried Chicken to Save Your Sunday
▼ + stars: | 2024-05-19 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

That’s often the way of the world: 20-minute jobs that can run to an hour if you’re not careful, two if you’re reckless. So here’s a dinner for anyone who’s wrestled the weekend and brought it only to a draw: Korean fried chicken (above). Julia Moskin adapted the recipe from one developed by the food writer Cecilia Hae-Jin Lee, using either boneless chicken thighs or bone-in wings. Taste the sauce for the glaze as you make it — some will want a little less ketchup, or a little more gochujang. Serve with sheet-pan japchae and beer you’ve stored in the freezer while you’re cooking the chicken, so cold that it has flecks of ice in it.

Persons: That’s, who’s, Julia Moskin, Cecilia Hae, Jin Lee

☆ Artichoke Carbonara, Slow-Roasted Salmon With Salsa Verde
▼ + stars: | 2024-05-12 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

I took a fantastic drive the other day across the top of Connecticut, from Simsbury over to Kingston, N.Y., through old tobacco fields and cow pastures and apple orchards and into the Hudson Valley under a bluebird sky. Slow-roasted salmon with salsa verde? I settled on artichoke carbonara (above), with bucatini and a garnish of raw egg yolk, to almost literally gild the lily. I drove over the bridge from Rhinecliff in afternoon sunlight and could almost see the dish glimmering below me on the river. I like it on any Sunday, but if you’re in need of a fantastic Mother’s Day meal, it’d be extra nice this evening.

Persons: artichoke Locations: Connecticut, Kingston , N.Y, Hudson, Rhinecliff

☆ Sweet Tea-Brined Roast Chicken for Sunday Supper
▼ + stars: | 2024-05-05 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

I made sweet tea and drank it over an enormous amount of ice, on the stoop, marveling at how sometimes sweet tea is the best tea, even if you usually drink tea straight, no sugar, with not even a lemon to counter the tannins. Sweet tea is reckless tea, unhealthy tea, a liquid candy bar, not something to drink every day. But it has its place, and I made enough of it so I could use the leftovers as a brine for Millie Peartree’s luscious roast chicken (above). Combine the tea with a big handful of Cajun seasoning and marinate chicken legs in it all day. Baste with the juices and serve with baked sweet potatoes, oh my.

Persons: Millie Peartree’s, It’s

☆ How to Use Up Those Easter Eggs
▼ + stars: | 2024-03-31 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

I had a lovely run of Brooklyn sandwiches going, before work, school and Easter intervened to send me back to the kitchen. A colossal roast beef, fried eggplant and mozzarella hero from Defonte’s in Red Hook, with hot peppers, gravy and mayonnaise. (A few years ago, I ginned up a recipe for the roast beef hero from Defonte’s.) But today is Easter, and not really a day for sandwiches — unless they’re ham ones on little potato rolls, with strong mustard, to eat in a side yard in the chill while children run around looking for hidden eggs. I want to make deviled eggs (above) to celebrate the holiday puckishly, or maybe a big egg salad to serve in lettuce cups.

Persons: Easter Locations: Brooklyn, Saigon, Ba, Sunset Park, Defonte’s, Red Hook, Taku, Greenpoint, Kings County

☆ Practice Makes Perfect Biscuits
▼ + stars: | 2024-03-24 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

If you make biscuits (above) today — and you ought to — they ought to be terrific. But if you make biscuits today and do so again next weekend and the weekend after and the weekend after that, they will be terrific, the best biscuits ever. This is a matter of practice related to what martial artists call kata — a set pattern that rewards repetition with excellence. The same goes for pizza dough — whether for pan pizza, Neapolitanish pizza or Chicago tavern-style pizza. “You’ve got to keep your hands in the flour,” the pizza lord Anthony Falco once told me, a reminder to always be making pizza dough, to be attuned to its particulars, to keep up the practice.

Persons: “ You’ve, Anthony Falco Locations: Chicago

☆ A Rich Braise From a Cheap Cut
▼ + stars: | 2024-03-17 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: 1 min

I like corned beef and cabbage myself for the holiday — Irish American food to ship up to Boston with, soda bread on the side. For you, then, this incredible bourbon-braised beef (above) that Vallery Lomas developed for us. The whiskey adds a fantastic complexity to a cheap cut of boneless beef chuck burbled with maple syrup, caramelized tomato paste, thyme, bay leaves and hints of both soy sauce and lemon juice. It’s as Irish as Carmela Soprano, but I’d serve it to your ma tonight with no misgivings. (Save the leftover braising liquid to make French onion soup.)

Persons: Patrick’s, that’s, Vallery Lomas, Carmela Soprano Organizations: Irish Locations: Boston

☆ Your Grilled Cheese Needs Toum
▼ + stars: | 2024-03-10 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

I’m embracing nostalgia today, luxuriating in memories of a Brooklyn I never experienced, even though I’m borough-raised. And for dinner beforehand, maybe Chinese roast pork on garlic bread? For Ham El-Waylly, nostalgia is a grilled cheese sandwich slathered with toum (above), a sauce made by combining garlic, lemon juice, salt and oil. The mixture is one that recalls the akkawi cheese manakeesh sandwiches he used to consume as a teenager in Doha, Qatar. The toum packs a wallop, as if you’d stuffed garlic bread with Muenster.

Persons: Ham Locations: Brooklyn, I’m, Coney, Ebinger’s, Doha, Qatar

☆ Go Big With Bibimbap
▼ + stars: | 2024-03-03 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

On Sunday, I like a project in the kitchen more than on any other day. It’s a chance to work at the stove without the need to get something on the table in 45 minutes, a time to stretch my skill set. Vivian Chan’s new recipe for bibimbap (above) suits beautifully. The dish traces its history to the last dynastic kingdom of Korea, the Josean, which lasted 500 years. It’s a showstopper of a meal with loads of components: a flavorful mixture of rice topped with bulgogi, shiitake mushrooms, bean sprouts, spinach, carrots and cucumbers, drizzled with a spicy gochujang sauce.

Persons: It’s, Vivian Chan’s Locations: Korea

☆ Chili for the Championship
▼ + stars: | 2024-02-11 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Many will make chili (above) today, one of the great foods of National Football League cuisine, up there with wings and nachos. Ali Slagle’s recipe is top-drawer: deep in flavor, spice and smokiness, and fairly easy to prepare. Make it with whatever meat you like — so long as it’s decently fatty, to bring out the taste of the aromatics. Chili’s a good way to guarantee a win during the Super Bowl, whichever team you’re rooting for. Bryan laughed when I said that and told me it was just fine to substitute a commercial browning sauce instead — something like Kitchen Bouquet, available in most grocery stores.

Persons: Ali Slagle’s, Chili’s, Darian Bryan, Velma Hawthorne, Bryan Organizations: National Football League Locations: Jamaica, New York

☆ Gingery Longevity Noodles to Make Again and Again
▼ + stars: | 2024-02-04 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: 1 min

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Organizations: The

☆ Plush, Perfumed Pepperpot
▼ + stars: | 2024-01-28 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Two or three clicks on the laptop and the mail carrier soon brought me a few pounds of the Provel cheese necessary to make it. Today’s shopping: cassareep, a Guyanese syrup of boiled cassava root, savory-sweet, like a cross between molasses and Worcestershire sauce. It’s a crucial ingredient in one of Guyana’s most beloved dishes, pepperpot (above), which Millie Peartree brought to New York Times Cooking this week. Of course you can buy cassareep online, but if there’s a Caribbean market where you are, it’s most likely stocked there as well. Browned into beef chuck, it makes for a lovely stew: spicy, fragrant, slightly sweet and sticky.

Persons: Louis, Millie Peartree, there’s Organizations: The New York Times, Lambert, New York Times Locations: Guyanese, Worcestershire, Caribbean

☆ These Are Superior Potatoes
▼ + stars: | 2024-01-26 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Mark Bittman is a freewheeling cook, a minimalist, open to improvisation. If I were writing his biography, I’d title it “Largely Unattended.”Kenji López-Alt is the opposite: an exacting, scientifically minded kitchen authority who employs terms like “polysaccharide glue” to explain why, for example, his Parmesan-crusted roasted potatoes (above) are so shockingly crisp and delicious. Read the recipe a few times before you make it, and then watch him make the dish on our YouTube channel so you’re well acquainted with the process. You’ll see. These are superior potatoes, amazing potatoes, just the dish to accompany a cast-iron steak that, when you’ve come to the end of the cooking process, you should take off the heat and baste in butter, with a healthy sprig of rosemary and a couple of cloves of garlic.

Persons: Mark Bittman, ” Kenji López, you’ve Locations: Detroit

☆ Sundays Are for Bolognese
▼ + stars: | 2024-01-21 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: 1 min

If there’s a better scent in the world than Marcella Hazan’s Bolognese sauce (above), I’m unaware of it. Well, apart from fresh-baked apple pie, that is. And wooden boats, spit-roasted lamb, fresh-cut hay and Jamaican black cake. But Bolognese is pretty great: that milk-calmed tomato over a bass line of beef, with a whisper of nutmeg warmth and a low hum of buttery onion. It’s just the thing for a Sunday afternoon of winter cooking, grandma-style, in advance of a family dinner.

Persons: Marcella Hazan’s

☆ The Top-Reviewed Chicken Recipe in Our Cooking Database
▼ + stars: | 2024-01-14 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

My Boston baked beans taste different from Amanda Hesser’s now that I’ve made the dish a gajillion times. They’re both the same recipe. Take my recipe for oven-roasted chicken shawarma, which lots of people make. (More than 17,000 readers have given it a rating on New York Times Cooking.) It was utterly fantastic, and utterly her own — more lemony than mine, a little warmer in spice, the meat cut a little differently — even though she followed the recipe exactly.

Persons: Amanda Hesser’s, I’ve, They’re Organizations: New York Times Locations: Boston

☆ What to Cook After You’ve Cooked Everything
▼ + stars: | 2023-11-26 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

You’ve consumed enough butter, starch and sugar to consider bearlike hibernation for the next week. But would you consider this ginger-scallion steamed fish (above) for dinner? Ali Slagle adapted the recipe from one developed by the chef Connie Chung, of Milu in New York City. Chung’s recipe is itself an adaptation of a classic Cantonese banquet dish, simplified for the fast-casual needs of her restaurant. Hers uses cubed fish steamed with a mixture of soy sauce and a ginger-scallion stock.

Persons: Ali Slagle, Connie Chung, Chung Locations: Milu, New York City

☆ A Thanksgiving Pep Talk
▼ + stars: | 2023-11-23 | by ( Sam Sifton | More About Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Here’s what to know: Every little thing is going to be all right. You’re going to serve the best meal that you can under the circumstances, and it’s going to be delicious and well received. You are not going to change anyone’s mind or behavior today, and that’s all right, too. And I bet it’s a fantastic day. (Here’s a collection of The Times’s best Thanksgiving cocktail recipes.)

Persons: Uncle Bertie, we’ve

☆ You’ve Planned Your Play. Now Play Your Plan.
▼ + stars: | 2023-11-19 | by ( Sam Sifton | More About Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: 1 min

For those of us who take Thanksgiving seriously, who plan and plan and cook and cook, this last Sunday before the feast marks the real start of the holiday. I’m short two dozen chairs!) That’s OK. Everything will turn out just fine. I trust the process. So I’ll spend a few hours working my plan and then turn to a simple dinner of chicken thighs cooked under a brick with a cheesy Hasselback potato gratin (above) on the side, a dress rehearsal for a new drop on Thursday.

Persons: I’ll

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