IN A DIM HOTEL BAR in the middle of a war, long after Kyiv’s nightly curfew, José Andrés is holding forth on Moldovan apples. The thing about them, he says, is that they were being sold in huge numbers to Russia before Russia began its invasion of Ukraine in late February. So when Andrés, the gregarious Spanish-American chef and founder of World Central Kitchen, landed in the region in March, he saw a confluence of crises that could be solved with a creative solution: There were hungry people in Ukraine and spare apples in Moldova. There was only one thing to do.

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