THE OLD Pineapple & Pearls was, by any measure, a resounding success. A year in, the Michelin Guide awarded it a coveted two stars. Which is why I was surprised to learn that Mr. Silverman had burned the whole concept to the ground and started from scratch. A two-year pandemic closure had given the chef and his team time to think about the future of Pineapple & Pearls and the point of its existence. “You hear the words ‘fine dining’ and it’s a three- or four-hour meal and you’re worshiping at the temple of some chef,” Mr. Silverman said.

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