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My Favorite Way to Make Salmon Even Better
  + stars: | 2024-06-19 | by ( Yotam Ottolenghi | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: 1 min
Much can be said about salmon. Its life cycle is so remarkable that its sheer survival seems to invoke some odds-defying metaphors. Tenacity, audacity, resilience: If anyone wants to anthropomorphize salmon, its heroic qualities are there for the taking. The sobering list goes on. In “Salmon: A Fish, the Earth and the History of Common Fate,” Mark Kurlansky links the fish’s fate and the future existence of our world.
Persons: ” Mark Kurlansky
A Dreamy Bean Dip in Under 30 Minutes
  + stars: | 2024-05-22 | by ( Yotam Ottolenghi | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
But in recipe writing as in life, there are few things less reassuring or relaxing than being told to be reassured and relax. But then how can you reconcile this vague confidence with the fact that, in so many other matters, the same recipe writer can be so specific? Take an onion, which, for many recipes, accomplishes what “once upon a time” does in so many stories. the recipe reader thinks. There are so many variables, none of which we writers seem to be in sync about in the slightest.
I was thinking about asparagus and how it evokes emotion: the anticipation of its coming, followed by the thrill of its short season’s finally arriving. But there’s another emotion I was trying to put into words: that melancholy — sadness, even — of being in a moment and knowing it will soon be over. We get it elsewhere: a moment with your child or aging parent when time stands still. German came to mind, with its countless words that manage to encapsulate so precisely what Brits and Americans can take sentences to convey. Weight gained as a result of emotional overeating is kummerspeck, translating literally to “grief bacon.”
Persons:
6 Podcasts for Food Lovers
  + stars: | 2024-02-25 | by ( Emma Dibdin | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +3 min
On its surface, food seems like a safe, low-stakes topic of conversation. Yet just like on matters of religion and politics, discussions of food can become surprisingly contentious — to demonstrate this, just ask your dinner guests to consider whether a hot dog is a sandwich. And some dissect food trends like bone broth, cold brew coffee and air fryers to judge whether the hype is warranted. Starter episode: “What’s The Best Type of French Fry?”As you’d expect from a BBC World Service production, this series has a nuanced, global perspective on the production and consumption of food. Although the guests featured in this American Public Media series are all food professionals, part of the fun is just how varied their recipes are in terms of both complexity and category.
Persons: Josh Scherer, Nicole Enayati, Scherer, Enayati, Fry, Ruth Alexander, , you’re, Paola, Kenji López, Jesse Sparks Organizations: BBC, Service, Public
Read previewI've been following the Mediterranean diet for over a year and a half, and it's my favorite way to eat. Before embarking on the Mediterranean diet, I was a junk-food queen. AdvertisementOne of the best things about the Mediterranean diet is that after I followed it for a while, I stopped craving sugar so much. Getty Images/Neilson BarnardOne of the best things about the Mediterranean diet is that I can eat cheese — in moderation, of course. AdvertisementBut I've saved a fortune since starting on the Mediterranean diet — largely because I cut out meat and started buying more canned foods.
Persons: , I've, I'd, Neilson Barnard, it's, Jennifer Barton Organizations: Service, Business Locations: pita, Greece, Italy, Israel
AdvertisementI don't miss red meat at allI used to eat a lot of red meat. That was one of the near-instantaneous benefits I noticed when I started following a Mediterranean diet. Fortunately, it's really easy to make budget-friendly swaps and still stick to a Mediterranean diet. There isn't just one Mediterranean dietI think one of the biggest misconceptions I had about the Mediterranean diet before I started following it was that it was pretty limited. Although a Mediterranean diet can be Greek, French, Spanish, and Italian, it's also Turkish, Lebanese, Israeli, and Moroccan.
Persons: , I've, Owen Franken, I'd, it's, Jennifer Barton It's, Jennifer Barton, veggies —, isn't, Yotam, Rachel Askinasi, they've, They're, I'm, It's Organizations: Service, Business Locations: It's, New York, Turkish, portobello
I’ll use polenta to illustrate this point because, let’s face it, the bar is pretty low when it comes to its initial flavor. I have spent precious time over the years trying to convince reluctant partakers that polenta is actually worth the sweat. Instead, the polenta is left as a blank canvas, splashed with roasted-until-golden mushrooms and charred tomatoes. These do what the cheese usually does: load the polenta with the umami richness it needs to get going. But it is the finishing oil, spiked with spices and aromatics, that pulls everything together and brightens the polenta in the same way that Parmesan does.
Persons: partakers, you’ve, isn’t
There are several ways the Japanese serve and cook soba, a nutty-tasting, brilliantly slurpable noodle made of buckwheat flour. I was seduced, so I went back the next day, again joining the long lunch line and, again, ordering my cold soba, with a serving of tempura shrimp. Buckwheat flour on its own is expensive, and the noodles it produces tend to be brittle. Commercial dried soba noodles manage to retain some of that texture and much of the flavor, as long as they are not overcooked. Once cooked and refreshed, your soba noodles can go into a cold broth, as they do in this recipe.
Persons: soba Locations: Kanda
You’ll have to watch the film, or read the wonderful novel by André Aciman on which it is based, to find out more. And yet, for all that these moments crystallize the nature of the perfect peach, how many times a year does a “perfect peach” actually happen for us? This is when cooking comes along, giving the peach a bit of help to draw out the sweetness. In my galette, it is actually under the peaches, hidden away, where so much of the basic, practical work takes place. In the kitchen, as in life, so much is just about the plain old nuts and bolts.
Persons: Timothée, Armie, André Locations: Italy
It is up for debate whether I can call all this a reliable memory, though, as I would consistently fall asleep a third of the way into the meal and probably missed out on half the food. The zucchini would be ready to serve as soon as the meatballs were done, he claimed with no hesitation. An innovation that was entirely his, though, was the addition of capers. When I was growing up, we used to pick the buds off the precariously thorny bushes that grew out of the cracks in walls all over Jerusalem. We would then soak them for three days, refreshing the water a few times, and pickle them in vinegar brine.
Persons: can’t Locations: Jerusalem
How Yotam Ottolenghi Comes Up With a New Recipe
  + stars: | 2023-06-14 | by ( Yotam Ottolenghi | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +2 min
First: the hand with the wooden spoon. Peppers and eggplants, tomatoes and tomato paste, my happy place. Keeping the tomatoes raw, I could make a sandwich in a pita, adding roasted eggplant, some tahini and parsley sauce. Spin the wheel, and Segnit will remind you of pairings you know work well. “Their favorite meat is lamb, their chosen yogurt sheep’s.”) She also tells you why they work.
Persons: Locations: Moroccan, Olive
A Genius Tomato Salad Primed for Picnics
  + stars: | 2023-06-14 | by ( Melissa Clark | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
Closer to home, an easier alfresco option might be your very own backyard (or stoop, sidewalk, courtyard or fire escape). Yotam Ottolenghi has a new recipe this week that’s slightly more involved, but just as colorful and fresh. Zaalouk with tahini is a Moroccan salad with spiced tomatoes, peppers and eggplant, all coated in a plush tahini-lemon dressing. Scoop it up with bread as a light meal, or serve it alongside roasted meats or fish for something more substantial. I ate it with flaky sea salt sprinkled on top and some vanilla ice cream on the side.
Persons: maven Nikita Richardson, We’ve, Sue Li’s, Ottolenghi Organizations: Food, Hamptons Locations: New York City, New York, Williamsburg, Moroccan
Yotam Ottolenghi Celebrates Spring With Asparagus
  + stars: | 2023-05-10 | by ( Yotam Ottolenghi | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
In her cookbook “Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat,” Samin Nosrat reduces two cups of heavy cream — add olive oil and Parmesan in very generous amounts — in an asparagus-and-mint pasta. Alice B. Toklas tossed her asparagus in melted butter and heavy cream. But as she served it, she whipped up some more heavy cream, seasoned with salt and pepper, to ward off any false sense of restraint. You can take a minimalist approach and roast your asparagus spears with some oil and salt. I also love Alice Waters’s classic salad of raw, thinly shaved asparagus with vinaigrette and Parmesan.
After that, I worked in a pastry shop in which meringues were multifunctioning as treats for sale as well as window decoration. Round meringues, each the size of a small fist, sprinkled with flaked almonds and piled up to heights where no other cake would be safely placed. Meringues’ natural sturdiness means they can be plucked from a distance with long tongs with little risk of breakage. These meringues are fully cooked in the middle, which allows you to break them up and mix them with whipped cream or ice cream, or even both. To the egg whites and sugar, a small amount of vinegar and some cornstarch are normally added.
Persons: chewy, , meringues, pavlova
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