Okdongsik’s soup is said to be made from just aromatic vegetables and muscle, without bones, offal or trimmings that might thicken and cloud the broth. After its initial run ended in April, the restaurant graduated from pop-up to long-term status. Mr. Ok opened his original restaurant in western Seoul in 2016. When it had all been sold, lunch was over and the restaurant closed for the day. Many Korean restaurants excel at one or two dishes, but their menus still offer dozens; loyal customers know exactly which ones to order.

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Persons: Okdongsik Locations: New York, Seoul, United States