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This Southern Staple Is Pure Gold
  + stars: | 2023-10-18 | by ( Eric Kim | More About Eric Kim | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +2 min
Frankly, I’d rather sift flour into a small bowl, peel potatoes with a dull paring knife or winkle out pomegranate arils wearing a white T-shirt than sort through green beans. Cooked just a bit longer — all the way through — a green bean can become its fullest self. Of course, you could buy green beans, already stemmed, even washed and “ready to eat,” but they’ll have been slowly molding in their wet plastic bags, sitting on the grocery-store shelf. Cooked just a bit longer — all the way through — a green bean can become its fullest self. The resultant sauce was rich and deep, the same kind of magic that’s in a bowl of Scott’s braised green beans and potatoes.
Persons: Scott Locations: Southern, , There’s
If Dr. Choi’s mother had a specialty, it was her encyclopedic knowledge of Korean ceremonial foods like yakgwa and how to present them. That’s why the recent commercialization of the cookie, with its ubiquity among young people who respect the tradition enough to reinterpret it, has delighted Dr. Choi. Today, Koreans enjoy yakgwa outside of those rites of passage, like as an after-school snack or weekday dessert with vanilla ice cream. When fresh, the cookie’s sticky, amber syrup should drip off slowly, drenching your fingers, like Winnie the Pooh’s paw, in honey. (The YouTube star and cookbook author Maangchi uses the word “juicy” to describe biting into fresh yakgwa.)
Persons: Choi, Choi’s, , Winnie, Maangchi Locations: Dang, Manhattan
“I feel like it’s totally underutilized,” she said about the fruity, moderately spiced pepper, named for a commune in France and prevalent in Basque cooking. When it comes to the piment d’Espelette, which turbocharges the flavor and pinkish color of this shrimp, you don’t have to pluck it from a Basque field. Be sure not to skip the orange zest, though; it brings out the Provençal wine’s inherent fruitiness. This last addition was a gift from another friend and colleague, Melissa Clark. Zested over the shrimp, the bittersweet orange lent balance and made the buttery sauce taste all the better.
Persons: Rebecca, , Melissa Clark, Melissa Organizations: The Times, Google Locations: France, Basque, Gochugaru, Aleppo, Brooklyn
The Secret to the Greenest Pesto
  + stars: | 2023-08-23 | by ( Eric Kim | More About Eric Kim | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +2 min
Until very recently, the Nickelodeon-green, almost teal pesto was a total mystery to me, a recipe I tried to replicate for years to no avail. But it’s the key to this dish, the most striking feature of an otherwise ordinary seafood pasta. But the pesto at Da Andrea is always shiny velvet, a shade of green that feels as if you’ve blended neon Chicago-dog relish into cream. Without the nuts, the pesto was pure basil, its floral aroma buoyed by an unbreakable emulsion of liquid and fat. If the pesto is the galaxy of this pasta, then the perfectly cooked seafood pieces are its brightest stars.
Persons: Da Andrea, Meliano Plasencia, Plasencia, I’ve, Organizations: Nickelodeon Locations: Da
The flavors and textures meld. No one component stands out. If you’re not using “a whole bottle of olive oil” when making eggplant Parm, he said, then what are you even doing? Like Elton John and Kiki Dee, Ms. Rito and Mr. Tacinelli finish each other’s sentences, often talking simultaneously — not over each other, but through. When asked, for instance, about the difference between Italian and Italian American food, the couple, who co-wrote the 2021 cookbook “Italian American,” baton-passed the answer.
Persons: Scott Tacinelli, Don Angie, Rito, , Elton John, Kiki Dee, Tacinelli Locations: Italian American
The Sandwich Southerners Wait for All Year
  + stars: | 2023-07-19 | by ( Eric Kim | More About Eric Kim | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +2 min
When it comes to the tomato sandwich, at least in the South, the conversation is less about what it is than what it is not. According to the readers of my hometown’s Gwinnett Magazine in Georgia, the Official Tomato Sandwich is two slices of white bread (“Not toasted. But the bread was not great.” That’s because she didn’t have her Merita Old Fashioned Bread, the soft white sandwich loaf she was used to. The joy of a Southern tomato sandwich is to highlight the fruit. The mushy whiteness of a soft sandwich bread, as the dripping tomato sogs the edges, is auxiliary for some.
Persons: , Mary, didn’t Organizations: Gwinnett Magazine Locations: Georgia, Southern
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