It was recognized in 1957 with a designation of origin, similar to that accorded a great Bordeaux. “The mash adds a little fat and softens the muscles formed in the fields to make the flesh moist and tender,” Mr. Sibelle explained with evident satisfaction. But if this farmer seemed passionate about his chickens, he is also drained by harsh realities. Mr. Sibelle, 59, is done. He and his wife, Maria, are about to sell a farm that has been in the family for over a century.

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Persons: Jean, Michel Sibelle, Mr, Sibelle, Maria Organizations: European Union Locations: France, Bresse, Bordeaux