OVER THE LAST decade, backbars across the U.S. have filled up with colorful, ornately labeled bottles of amaro, an Italian liqueur infused with herbs, roots and/or spices. The bitter option pulls from the often more than 15 amari (including Italian and domestic options) in stock. In fall and winter, amari mingle with aged spirits, like whiskey, often on the rocks. In the spring, they find their way into spritzes or drinks made with clear spirits like gin or tequila. There’s only one rule, said general manager Brittany Tinelli, who selects the spirits at Roman’s: “The bitter needs to be the star.”

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