Operating profit in the Swedish group's fiscal first quarter was 725 million Swedish crowns ($69.73 million) against a profit of 458 million crowns a year earlier.
H&M's operating profit margin was 1.3%, up from 0.9% a year earlier.
Helmersson said the company expects a gross margin recovery over the year and is making progress towards its goal of a 10% operating margin next year.
Analysts at Credit Suisse said it would be "very challenging" for H&M to return to a 10% margin in 2024.
H&M said net sales for March were expected to increase by 4% in local currencies compared with the corresponding period last year.