I cleared those plates, tempted every time to sneak a rehydrating taste when there were leftovers. On my last day, the managers said I could order anything I wanted: I sat at a table, a diner for the first time, and ordered the salad. The salads of my youth, the ones I most remember, all have this effect — and they all have cheese. The contrast between cool, anchoring base note (fruit, vegetable or lettuce) and salty, creamy accent (cheese) is what makes a bite of these salads feel like more than just salad. The day I interviewed for my first food-writing job, even before getting the offer, I celebrated with a glass of rosé and a Caesar salad.

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Persons: Paul McCartney, John Lennon, Branch, Jessica Harp, Adam Baumgart, Gabrielle Hamilton’s, ” Organizations: Brooklyn Locations: St, Augustine, Fla, Parmigiano, New York City