As tourism returns to prepandemic levels across Italy, travelers itching to visit Florence face a delicate dilemma: how to experience the Tuscan capital’s Renaissance grandeur while remaining sensitive to the damage mass tourism inflicts. One solution is to travel outside of the high season, but even in the fall, visitors will face crowds at the Galleria dell’Accademia and at the Uffizi (especially if the latter reopens the long-shuttered Corridoio Vasariano to the public this year, as planned). Even better is to approach Florence not as a historical theme-park, but as a living city, by seeking out lesser-known pockets and new projects — from an ambitious cultural complex to a tiny trattoria run by passionate young Florentines — that will help sustain this city for years to come.

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Persons: Florence Organizations: Florence Locations: Italy