ALSO-RAN Why do so many wine drinkers equate red with serious and superior? Makers of great white wines beg to differ. Illustration: Cristina Spano“THE FIRST DUTY of wine is to be red,” the late, great English wine merchant and writer Harry Waugh reportedly stated, sometime before the turn of the last century. Recently I asked amateurs and professionals alike whether they esteem reds above whites, and most reported that they do consider red wines superior in at least some respect. I did, however, come away with some interesting insights into how we define greatness in wine.

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Persons: Cristina Spano “, Harry Waugh, Waugh