The base was always strawberry, the rosy slush whorling down into the cup. Halfway through, Mr. Young would stop the machine and spoon in the liquid skimmed off a jar of li hing mui, a local snack of preserved plums soused on a brew of sugar and licorice. Neale Asato loved that li hing Icee, too. It was the inspiration for his li hing float, a meld of strawberry sherbet and vanilla ice cream with hidden seams of li hing sauce, one of the best sellers at Asato Family Shop in downtown Honolulu. Freeze to a slush, then whip on high speed, letting in the air until it expands, a pink cloud rising.

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Persons: Kon Ping, Mr, Young, —, hing mui, He’d, Neale Asato, Asato, Gunji Locations: Honolulu, Hawaii, Waikiki, Green, Iowa, Maui, Jokichi, Japan