I was a baking-and-pastry devotee and did not yet have the experience of working among ornery savory chefs with their own idols and heroes.
Ms. Lewis was as savory a chef as I had studied at that point, but I mostly focused on her pies, cakes and breads.
Back then, I regretted when savory chefs commandeered the dessert menu.
This is the trademark of pastry chefs of my generation.
We have been brought up in both worlds, learning the rules and then adjusting to our moment and materials, as savory chefs do.
Persons:
Sal, Aaron, Jesse, Pierre Hermé —, Hermé’s, Dorie Greenspan —, Claudia Fleming, Gina DePalma, Lindsey Shere, Elisabeth Prueitt, Edna Lewis, Lewis, Paul Bertolli’s, Panisse
Organizations:
Big
Locations:
Oakland, Calif