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New York Italian Food Is Getting Weird (in a Good Way)
  + stars: | 2024-07-30 | by ( Ella Quittner | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
On a recent Friday at Daphne’s, a new Italian restaurant in Brooklyn’s Bedford-Stuyvesant neighborhood, the red sauce was green, made from chartreuse-colored tomatoes and a splash of vodka. The lasagna came in the form of noodles fried into chips, broken over a dish of beef tartare topped with shoyu-cured egg yolk. There was a Milanese cutlet, but its crisp carapace swaddled swordfish, not veal. And the booths were neither rustic and wooden nor wrapped in red vinyl; the place’s co-owners, Gary Fishkop and Paul Cacici, had instead installed banquettes covered with custom-made buttery-soft spearmint green leather. Farther east in Brooklyn, at Marie’s in Bushwick, the James Beard-nominated chef Miguel Trinidad serves chopped cheese ravioli the size of drink coasters and lamb patty white ragù.
Persons: Gary Fishkop, Paul Cacici, James Beard, Miguel Trinidad Organizations: Carota, Memphis Group Locations: Daphne’s, Brooklyn’s Bedford, Stuyvesant, Milanese, Williamsburg, Carbone, Greenwich, Gowanus, Brooklyn, Marie’s, Bushwick
It is also a window, onto the city’s antiwork culture, eclectic individualism and architectural sediments. Daphne’s eating disorder ornaments the 20-something’s “joyfully misspent” time abroad the way Hemingway’s hunger enhanced his visits to the art museum. But unlike Hemingway, Daphne must contend with the dangers of being a young woman living alone in a new city. “Berlin” shines when we leave Daphne’s head long enough to observe the humorous and tender behaviors of those around her. A look inside her mind reveals the force of danger thinly veiled behind the romantic glow of youth.
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