The presence of fancy ham in New York is not new. Local institutions like Estela, King, Ernesto’s, Carbone and those of the Momofuku group (where Pinsky used to cook) have long touted elevated cured pork to diners looking to pretend they’re vacationing in Europe. And there’s a $29 hot dog on the menu at Mischa, the chef Alex Stupak’s new restaurant in Midtown. Cured meat, there’s nothing more sophisticated.”“Consumers have gotten supersmart,” says Grant Reynolds, a co-founder of Pig Bar and Parcelle. “In fine dining, there’s talk about perception of value,” says Pinsky.

---

Persons: Ernesto’s, Carbone, Pinsky, revel, Mischa, Alex Stupak’s, Ignacio Mattos, ”, Grant Reynolds Organizations: Bar, Pig Locations: New York, Europe, East Siders, Midtown, Lodi, “