6:30 Graze on avant-garde creationsMost of the restaurants founded by Albert Adrià, formerly of elBulli, the groundbreaking restaurant 90 minutes north of the city that closed in 2011, did not survive the pandemic. But Enigma , his flagship creation in Poble Sec, has not merely survived but been reborn. Here, amid icily eerie décor, both the hours (Enigma opens at the thoroughly unSpanish dinner hour of 6.30 p.m) and the menu itself, with highlights like an impossibly light “air” waffle flavored with basil, and a chervil-slicked mushroom carpaccio that recreates an elBulli classic, allows for early evening grazing — although most diners have a hard time pulling themselves away with anything less than the full gastronomic experience. Most of the individual dishes range from 7 to 20 euros.

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