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An Orange Cake From a Revolutionary Chef
  + stars: | 2023-11-01 | by ( Lisa Donovan | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +4 min
I was a baking-and-pastry devotee and did not yet have the experience of working among ornery savory chefs with their own idols and heroes. Ms. Lewis was as savory a chef as I had studied at that point, but I mostly focused on her pies, cakes and breads. Back then, I regretted when savory chefs commandeered the dessert menu. This is the trademark of pastry chefs of my generation. We have been brought up in both worlds, learning the rules and then adjusting to our moment and materials, as savory chefs do.
Persons: Sal, Aaron, Jesse, Pierre Hermé —, Hermé’s, Dorie Greenspan —, Claudia Fleming, Gina DePalma, Lindsey Shere, Elisabeth Prueitt, Edna Lewis, Lewis, Paul Bertolli’s, Panisse Organizations: Big Locations: Oakland, Calif
Add to cooked pasta, garnish with a handful of basil and dinner is done. I’ve been making tomato salads almost every evening, and I have to admit I’ve grown weary of my olive-oil-salt-basil minimalism. Kay Chun’s Thai-style crunchy vegetable salad, with its dressing of fish sauce and lime, turns out to be the perfect antidote. Peak summer is also peak slow cooker. It’s fancier, richer and less sweet than American icebox cakes, though you’re permitted to skip the chocolate curls on top.
Persons: I’ve, Kay Chun’s, Kay, they’re, Sarah DiGregorio’s, Genevieve Ko’s, Moka Dupont, It’s, you’re Locations: French
There is perhaps no Zoom meeting less satisfying than one scheduled on a cold weekday morning to talk about food — specifically, the food that one ought to eat in Paris. And so was the Paris culinary scene, driven by that thrilling hunt for places both new and old, French and not, an obsession among natives and tourists alike. As with a similar list we made for New York — and as part of our ongoing T 25 series, which has surfaced significant and memorable travel destinations, buildings, interiors, art, fashion and books — we wanted to name the essential Parisian dishes to eat right now. The final list, which appears in unranked alphabetical order below and covers most arrondissements, isn’t what we expected, nor is it like the myriad Parisian food rankings we’ve all encountered before. Above all, it speaks to the fact that great food — particularly in Paris, particularly right now — looks forward and backward at once: That’s what makes eating there (and debating where to eat there) so deliciously freewheeling.
Persons: I’d, Dominique Ansel, Dorie Greenspan, Moko Hirayama, Omar Koreitem, Aude, Mercerie, Daniel Rose, Jessica Yang, Pierre Hermé, chou, — Kurt Soller Organizations: New York Locations: Paris, New, 11th, Marie, America, France, Italy, Africa, Asia, Philippines
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