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Paris CNN —True to his theatrical form, Thom Browne’s fall 2024 couture show opened with spectacle. The collection featured couture made from muslin "toiles" as well as intricate embroidery and needlework in gold, silver and bronze. Thom Browne (which has, since 2018, been part of Zegna group who own a 90% stake) is also a ready-to-wear business currently offered in over 300 department-stores and boutiques across 40 countries, as well as in 110 Thom Browne retail stores. “I like to entertain and to ground it in beautifully made clothes.”"The work in progress becomes the final work... Couture," wrote Thom Browne in their show notes, of the decision to use toile in the collection. Kristy Sparow/Getty ImagesPerhaps surprisingly for a couture collection, it was muslin — the simple, lightweight cotton used to create initial mock-ups of clothes (called “toiles”) at ateliers — that comprised much of Browne’s finished pieces.
Persons: Thom Browne’s, riffed, weightlifters —, Francois Durand, Browne, Thom Browne, ” Browne, , , Kristy Sparow, Browne’s, … Couture, Laurel, , David Fisher, Jared Ellner, Emma Chamberlain, Molly Gordon, Sabrina Carpenter, Sabrina, Emma Organizations: CNN, Paris Fashion, Couture, Paris CNN, Getty, Apollo Locations: Paris, France, New
The Cosmic Genius of Iris Van Herpen
  + stars: | 2024-01-23 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
Possible that said couture show is not an invitation-only affair with gold ballroom chairs and the latest celebrity du jour, but rather one open to the public. “Iris Van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses,” a one-woman exhibition that opened at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in late November and scheduled to run through April 28. Five years in the making, “Sculpting the Senses” crystallizes why Ms. Van Herpen, 39, is the youngest female designer to be granted a solo show at the museum in its 140 years of existence. And why, more than a decade after being invited to join the ranks of Paris’s couturiers, Ms. Van Herpen has also been made a Chevalier des Arts et Lettres, an honor presented by the French Ministry of Culture. “She has managed to create a unique world, somewhere between fairy tale and science fiction,” said Christine Macel, director of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs.
Persons: Iris Van Herpen, Van Herpen, Paris’s couturiers, , Christine Macel Organizations: Décoratifs, Paris’s, des, French Ministry of Culture, Arts Locations: Paris,
Best gift ever On his departure from the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, staff members, friends and board members presented him with a textile sculpture by the French artist Simone Pheulpin, who was the subject of an exhibition there in late 2021. “This sculpture is, for me, a talisman,” Mr. Gabet wrote, “both a remembrance of nine years of my professional and personal life, a wonderful and powerful art work, but also the objet d’art which will accompany me for the forthcoming years of my life.”Image The textile sculpture by the French artist Simone Pheulpin that was given to Olivier Gabet. Best gift ever “When I was in elementary school, after moving to Paris from Niger, I was gifted with Amadou Hampâté Bâ’s memoir, ‘Amkoullel, L’Enfant Peul,’ by my father. Like the author, I have Peul (or Fulani) heritage and roots in the Sahel region of West Africa. I felt a deep pull while reading, like a multitude of secrets I had yet to unfold.”
Persons: Simone Pheulpin, Mr, Gabet, , Olivier Gabet, ‘ Les, Anne Dion, ” Tatiana Kombo Ms, Kombo, Amadou Hampâté Bâ’s, , L’Enfant Organizations: Arts Locations: French, Paris, , Niger, Sahel, West Africa
That will be followed in November by “Iris van Herpen. All of which should add up to a potent reminder of the breadth and contributions of women designers — not to mention a spur for the future. They decided to team up, but the Covid-19 pandemic intervened, postponing the show to this year. The result showcases the work of about 70 designers held in the Costume Institute’s collection, which stretches from the turn of the 20th century to today and includes names both famous (Jeanne Lanvin, Claire McCardell) and little known (Augusta Bernard, Madeleine & Madeleine). And it is a reminder that once upon a time, the industry looked very different.
Persons: Gaby Aghion, , “ Iris van Herpen, , Mellissa Huber, Karen Van Godtsenhoven, Huber, Van Godtsenhoven, Andrew Bolton, Jeanne Lanvin, Claire McCardell, Augusta Bernard, Madeleine Organizations: Jewish Museum, Institute Locations: New York, Paris
[1/5] A model presents a creation by designer Elie Saab as part of his Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2023-2024 collection show in Paris, France, July 5, 2023. REUTERS/Sarah MeyssonnierPARIS, July 5 (Reuters) - Elie Saab doubled down on capes for his autumn haute couture lineup presented in Paris on Wednesday, offering them in a variety of forms that added volume to silhouettes. In contrast were black dresses worn with hooded capes that swept the floor, including one covered in bright red roses. Following up on the introduction of menswear to his haute couture lineup a year ago, the Lebanese designer also included male models, outfitting them in regal, robe-like capes, black with elaborate gold embroidery. The Paris haute couture shows, which run through July 6, have drawn fashion press and celebrities to the French capital.
Persons: Elie Saab, Sarah Meyssonnier PARIS, Giorgio Armani Prive, Dior, Valentino, Thom Browne, Mimosa Spencer, Matthew Lewis Organizations: Haute Couture, REUTERS, Musee des Arts, Louvre Museum, Thomson Locations: Paris, France, Lebanese, shimmery
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