But by 2020, the cafe’s success had begun to weigh on him. Bille Brahe, now 40, felt he’d become more of a manager, overseeing invoices and catering events, rather than the creative person he’s always strived to be. His initial impulse was to leave it and do something completely new. He decided to recommit to the Apollo and “to rediscover my gastronomic ambitions,” he said. In addition to other, more subtle changes, that meant shifting his focus away from lunch and breakfast and toward dinner.

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Persons: Bille Brahe, he’d, he’s, “, Donna J, ”, Bille Brahe — Locations: American