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He is the author of “The Third Reconstruction: America’s Struggle for Racial Justice in the Twenty-First Century.” The views expressed here are his own. CNN —Had he lived, Martin Luther King Jr. would be 95 years old this year. He turned political debates over racial integration, non-violent civil disobedience and voting rights into a national, then global, referendum on freedom. And, as their forerunners did, they continue to press for voting rights, equal education and environmental justice in communities of color – all a continuation of King’s legacy. The passage of the 1964 Civil Rights Act and the 1965 Voting Rights Act were not pre-ordained - nor were they universally beloved pieces of legislation.
Persons: Joseph, Barbara Jordan, , CNN —, Martin Luther King Jr, Joseph Kelvin Ma, Kelvin Ma, King, subversives, Communist dupes, John F, Kennedy, Robert F, Black, ” King, White, , Jim Crow, , ” Kennedy, George Wallace Organizations: Center, LBJ School of Public Affairs, University of Texas, Racial Justice, CNN, Tufts University, Communist, Jobs, Birmingham City, White, University of Alabama, Blacks Locations: Austin, America, Washington, Birmingham, United States
CNN —The iconic tulle tutu worn by Sarah Jessica Parker in the opening credits of “Sex and the City” proved a star lot in an auction of “iconic” fashion pieces from film, TV and celebrity wardrobes on Thursday, selling for $52,000, more than four times its high estimate. The oyster-white, three-tier tutu skirt was expected to sell for $8,000-12,000, but drew 24 bids during a sale by Julien’s Auctions in California. The tutu “became a pop culture symbol,” according to the auction house, after Parker wore it in her role as Carrie Bradshaw in the smash-hit HBO TV series. The tutu also made an appearance in the 2008 “Sex and the City” movie, in a scene in which Carrie is clearing out her closet and deciding whether to keep certain outfits. The piece was sold with a certificate of authenticity signed by Field.
Persons: tutu, Sarah Jessica Parker, tutu “, Parker, Carrie Bradshaw, Patricia Field, Pat, Carrie, , Sarah Jessica, ” “, Samantha, Charlotte, Miranda, Kim Cattrall, Kristin Davis, Cynthia Nixon, , Kim Kardashian, Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor, Catherine Walker, Princess Diana, Cher, Elle Woods Organizations: CNN, Julien’s, HBO, Warner Bros ., Vogue, City, Field Locations: California, City, throwaways, chihuahua
10 industry leaders transforming business in 2023
  + stars: | 2023-12-11 | by ( ) www.businessinsider.com   time to read: +20 min
In 2023, Business Insider's annual list of People Transforming Business highlights key players across the advertising, ESG, finance, AI, and labor sectors. Increasingly, they're turning to more opaque private credit markets to borrow money. The world of private credit sits outside the traditional banking system. Analysts expect the private credit market to balloon in size — likely keeping lawyers like Breen very busy. Muthukrishnan is trying to make sense of how risky these private credit loans are by overseeing what is so far the most comprehensive look at vulnerabilities in the industry.
Persons: Mira Murati, who's, Vince Toye, Eileen Fisher, Eileen Fisher Fisher, Guerin Blask, Eileen Fisher Eileen Fisher, she's, Fisher, Janelle Jones, Jones, Lexey, , She's, Justin Breen, Proskauer Breen, Proskauer Justin Breen, he's, Breen, Ares Capital, He's, McLaren, Julie Su, Labor Julie Su, Department of Labor Julie Su, Su, Marty Walsh, Murati, Jim Wilson, Neal Mohan, YouTube Mohan, Katie Thompson, YouTube It's, YouTube isn't, Mohan, Muthukrishnan, Satya Nadella, Microsoft Satya Nadella, Ben Kriemann, Nadella, Steve Ballmer, Mathias Döpfner, Axel Springer, Tim Cook, Apple Cook, Justin Sullivan, Cook, Steve Jobs, Jobs, JPMorgan Chase Toye, JPMorgan Chase, Toye, they'll, Vince Toye's, Bella Sayegh, Rebecca Ungarino, Lara O'Reilly, Juliana Kaplan, Alex Nicoll, Tim Paradis, Stephanie Hallett, Michelle Abrego, Josée Rose, Ryan Joe, Emily Canal, Kaja Whitehouse, Alyssa Powell, Davis, Jonann Brady Organizations: JPMorgan, Service Employees International, SEIU, New York, Ford, Service Employees International Union, United Auto Workers Union, Spelman College, US Department of Labor, Economic Policy Institute, Center for Economic, Research, Department of Labor, The New York Times, Ares, Churchill Asset Management, European, Atlético Madrid, Labor, Labor Department, MacArthur Foundation, New York Times, Dartmouth, OpenAI, Associated Press, YouTube, NFL, DirecTV, Federal, Microsoft, Manipal Institute of Technology, University of Wisconsin -, University of Chicago, Apple, Apple Watch, Google, Time, JPMorgan Chase, National Housing Trust, Trenton Almgren Locations: McDonald's, Lorain , Ohio, Atlanta, California, Los Angeles, Albania, Canada, Muthukrishnan, Hyderabad, India, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee, OpenAI, Virginia, Wells Fargo, Trenton
IN 1942, Claire McCardell, America’s most American designer, created her best-known dress, the denim Pop-over, so named because you could pop it on over other clothes to protect them during housework. Department-store buyers were so enamored of the Pop-over that they persuaded McCardell’s employer, Adolph Klein, to commit to a huge 75,000-yard denim order, assuring him the garment would be a sell-out hit. At the time, denim was a workingman’s textile that women rarely wore. He implored McCardell to come up with some other denim designs—just in case the order was overkill. (Klein needn’t have worried about the Pop-over: Priced at $6.95, it shattered sales expectations.)
Persons: Claire McCardell, Adolph Klein, Klein, McCardell, Klein needn’t
CNN —At the 2023 Academy Museum Gala in Los Angeles last night, not one, but three celebrities arrived in a decidedly retro accessory: Evening gloves. First popularized in the 16th century, the opera glove (usually categorized as being between 19 and 23 inches in length) has long been a dependable garment to elevate and exaggerate any ensemble. Gomez wore her accessories over her opera gloves. Marilyn Monroe created an iconic opera gloves moment, teaming them with a bustier dress in the 1953 movie "Gentlemen Prefer Blondes." For its latest Fall-Winter 2023 campaign, Versace dressed down a pair of black croc-effect leather elbow gloves with blue denim jeans.
Persons: Selena Gomez, Valentino, Cara Delevigne, Jared Leto’s, Givenchy, Gomez, Michael Buckner, Elizabeth I, Marilyn Monroe’s, , ” Monroe, , Monroe, Marilyn Monroe, Bella Hadid, Anne Hathaway, Olivia Rodrigo, Zoë Kravitz, Emma D’Arcy, Mia Goth, Cambridge, Paula Rowan, Versace, Kodi Smit, McPhee, Kendall Jenner, Angela Weiss, lá Gomez Organizations: CNN, Variety, Fox Locations: Los Angeles, Shutterstock, Buckingham
By contrast, even the most expensive Shopping Bags often cost less than $300. Telfar Clemens at the CFDA x Vogue Fashion Fund 'Americans in Paris' event, Paris Fashion Week, France in March 2018. Maker of the ‘Bushwick Birkin’“This Telfar bag imported. The Covid-19 pandemic sent the popularity of the Shopping Bag to new heights — new bag releases announced online sold out in minutes. ‘For everyone’In 2015, Telfar had an unusual partner at New York Fashion Week: fast-food chain White Castle.
Persons: Bella Hadid, Alexandria Ocasio, “ Abbott, they’re, Birkin, , Telfar Clemens —, ” Clemens, Clemens, He’s, Telfar, Telfar Clemens, Hagop Kalaidjian, Clemens “, Lois Sakany, Beyoncé, Gonzalo Marroquin, Patrick McMullan, Solange Knowles, David X Prutting, Bushwick Birkin, , Adrienne Jones, Samia Laaboudi, Edward Berthelot, Chanel, Laticha Brown, , Robert F, Kennedy, Babak Radboy, , It’s, Elliott Jerome Brown Jr, ” Sakany, Sakany, Pratt’s Jones, Radboy, ” Telfar, DiCianno, Jones, ” Jones, it’s Organizations: New, New York CNN, Rep, ABC, Brooklyn, tote, Gay Times, Fund, Paris, CNN, Liberian, New York’s Pace University, Breakfast Club, of Fashion Designers of America, Vogue, Guggenheim Museum, ” Pratt Institute, Security, New York, Reuters, Analysts, Bag Security, Fashion Institute of Technology, White, Kennedy Human Rights Liberty, Justice Fund, Old, Fast Locations: New York, Alexandria, Cortez, Bushwick, Brooklyn, Paris, France, New York City, Liberian, Queens, Liberia, United States, USA, . Clemens
How Jewish People Built the American Theater
  + stars: | 2023-11-29 | by ( Jesse Green | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +46 min
Let Us Tell You A Story How Jewish people built the American theater as we know it. The theater, which for many Jews was a major way of becoming American in the first place, seems unable to acknowledge that the danger that American Jews face is not just historical, and not just onstage. (Both of Adler’s parents were Yiddish theater stars — her father, Jacob Adler, was a renowned Shylock in 1903.) Embedding their own observation and experience within Stanislavsky’s, along with the best of Yiddish theater and a generous dollop of Freud, they converted the American theater to Judaism. Sara Krulwich/The New York TimesThe Jewish contribution to the creation of the American theater was built on the acknowledgment of a larger humanity alive within each of us, available to some, with natural empathy and rigorous training.
Persons: Glocca, , Lerner, Loewe, , Isidore Hochberg, Burton Lane, né Burton Levy, William Goldman, “ Killybegs, Sammy Davis Jr, Julie Andrews, Connie Francis, Rosemary Clooney, Tommy Dorsey, Davis, , Arthur Miller’s “, joyously, Jason Schmidt, Christine Jones, Miller, I’ve, Marilyn Monroe, Robert Brustein, Neil Simon’s, ” Cynthia Ozick, Sholom, Philip Roth, Simon, Leonard Bernstein, Matt Nadel, Bradley, Bernstein, “ Maestro, Shylock, William Shakespeare’s “, Venice ”, Shakespeare, Christopher Marlowe’s, Farah Karim, Cooper, Bard ”, “ Merchant, Tom Stoppard’s, Sara Krulwich, Ansky’s, Stella Adler, Bessie Berger, Clifford Odets’s, Arthur Miller, Elia Kazan, Francis Joseph Bruguière, Billy Rose, Eugene Smith, Roth, Arthur Schnitzler, Juliet Stevenson, Ruth Wolff, Lorraine Hansberry’s, Sidney’s, Alex Edelman’s “, Leo Frank, Bernard B, Frank, Mandy Patinkin, James Lapine, Stephen Sondheim’s, George, Martha Swope, outspokenness, creatives, Oscar Isaac, Sidney, “ Sidney Brustein, Isaac, Stevenson, Robert Icke, Roman Catholic Cooper, Rachel Brosnahan, Maisel, Joan Rivers —, Brosnahan, Sidney Brustein’s, Alec Guinness, Fagin, “ Oliver Twist, I’m, Micaela Diamond, Ben Platt, Lucille, Alfred Uhry, Jason Robert Brown’s, Rivers, Wolff, Robert, Republic ”, isn’t, LEE Strasberg, Konstantin Stanislavsky’s, Fyodor Ivanovich, Strasberg, Israel Strassberg, Zalmon, Srulke, Joseph Stein, Sheldon Harnick, Jerry Bock’s “, Bette Midler, Jackie Hoffman, Photofest Stanislavsky, Theater’s, Isaac Butler, Stanislavsky, Harold Clurman, George Bernard Shaw, Henrik Ibsen, Clurman, Adler, Jacob Adler, Freud, Rebecca Naomi Jones, Ruthie Rivkin, Jerome Weidman, Harold Rome’s “, John Weidman, disown Strasberg, Sanford Meisner, Bobby Lewis, , Marlon Brando, James Dean, Meisner, Robert Duvall, Lewis, Meryl Streep, Clifford Odets, Jacob Garfinkle, Jules Garfield, Odets, Sam Feinschreiber, Garfield, Ralph Berger, wasn’t, John, Tovah Feldshuh, Golda Meir, William Gibson’s, Aaron Epstein, exigencies, Bessie, Feinschreiber —, loveless, William Fox, Louis B, Mayer, Jack Warner, Marjorie Morningstar ”, Morgenstern, Marjorie, Natalie Wood, Anne Frank ”, Millie Perkins, Audrey Hepburn, Susan Strasberg —, Ibsen, Sholom Aleichem, August Wilson, Daveed Diggs, Thomas Jefferson, Lin, Manuel Miranda’s “ Hamilton ”, Adrian Lester, Emanuel Lehman —, Barbra Streisand, Marmelstein, George Silk, Miller’s, Sophie Okonedo, Elizabeth Proctor, Ben Whishaw, John Proctor, Jan Versweyveld, Don’t, — Bernstein, Stoppard, Schnitzler, Jeanine Tesori, Tony Kushner’s “ Caroline, Sharon D Clarke, Adam Makké, Noah Gellman, Leo, Stoppard —, Hermine, ” Leo Frank, there’s, Matthew Broderick, Eugene Jerome, it’s, Edelman’s, Queens bigots, David Yosef Shimon ben Elazar Reuven Alexander Halevi Edelman, Woody Allen, Joshua Harmon’s, — George Gershwin, Jerome Kern, Richard Rodgers, Porgy, Bess ”, Barns, Alex Edelman, Paula Vogel, Harvey Fierstein, Jordan Taylor Fuller, — that’s, Wendell Pierce, Friedman, Jacobs, Hirschfeld, Gershwin, Rodgers, PAULA VOGEL, BRANDON URANOWITZ, DAVID CROMER, MICAELA DIAMOND, TONY KUSHNER, Diamond, Monica Rich Kosann, Marco Bicego, JESSE EISENBERG, MATTHEW BRODERICK, AMY HERZOG, LESLIE RODRIGUEZ KRITZER, JOEL GREY, Herzog, Michael Kors, Kritzer, Marco, HARVEY FIERSTEIN, LIEV SCHREIBER, ETHAN SLATER, IDINA MENZEL, TINA LANDAU Organizations: Broadway, Broadway’s Lyceum, , of Venice, New York Times, Defamation League, New York Public Library, Performing, Vandamm, Billy, Billy Rose Theatre Division, Performing Arts, New, Jacobs, Empire State, Nazi, Goyim Defense, The New York Public Library, Roman Catholic, New York City, Street, Moscow Art, Group, Hollywood, Disney, Everett, The New York Times, Philadelphia, Brit, Times Locations: Poland, American, kilts, E.Y, Harburg, Kilkerry, Kildare, Philadelphia, New York, Polish, Massachusetts, Vichy, Biloxi, Venice, Malta, of, , Germany, playgoers, Sweden, England, United States, Pittsburgh, Nazi, Brustein’s, Greenwich, Georgia, Gutenberg, , Atlanta, Republic, New, Konstantin Stanislavsky’s Moscow, Russian, America, Moscow, Stanislavsky’s, Clurman, Eastern Europe, Czech, Austrian, Auschwitz, Heini, Southern, Brighton, Rivers, French Republic, “ Brigadoon
Dalia Jacobs, a Palestinian brand strategist and creative director, told CNN she wears a keffiyeh made in her hometown, Hebron, when she travels abroad. The keffiyeh “says who I am and carries my family’s history with me always,” she told CNN. To combine the two pieces of Palestinian cultural heritage, she used traditional embroidery techniques to adorn her black and white keffiyeh. During the 1960s, there was another resurgence in the keffiyeh as political symbol, with the scarf worn by both men and women. Yasser Arafat, who served for decades as the chairman of the Palestine Liberation Organization, was often pictured wearing the black and white keffiyeh, which further cemented the scarf as a symbol of the Palestinian national struggle.
Persons: , Majeed Malhas, keffiyehs —, keffiyehs, Malhas, Hazem Bader, Dalia Jacobs, ” A.S, , Ghnaim, ” Yasser Arafat, Georges De Keerle, Yasser Arafat, Leila Khaled, Harry Koundakjian, Carrie Bradshaw, Louis Vuitton, keffieh, ” Malhas Organizations: CNN, University of Toronto, Metropolitan Museum of Art, Arab, Palestinian, West Bank, Getty, Palestinian Liberation Organization, Palestinian Authority, Palestine Liberation Organization, Popular Front, Liberation, Palestine, City Locations: Vermont, Israel, Palestinian, Canadian, Palestine, New York City, , Old City, Hebron, North Carolina, Jordan, France, Burlington, New York
But while cheap chic may seem like the way to go, the fast fashion industry sees clothing pushed out on a scale that is even too large for most consumers to keep up with. Why is fast fashion so popular? Fast fashion accounts for “quick designs, quick manufacturing, quick marketing, quick retailing — it doesn’t leave the time to consider these bigger needs, like ethical considerations or rights of workers,” Osnes said. “The planet is on fire, and the truth is the fashion industry aids in a percentage of that.”Is ‘sustainable fashion,’ a viable alternative? But shop responsibly… try to use your budget to buy one good quality item,” Arya said, instead of a glut of fast fashion basics.
Persons: CNN —, Preeti Arya, Vox, Shein, Jade Gao, Beth Osnes, ” Osnes, “ It’s, , Aja Barber, Technology’s Preeti Arya, Richard Levine, Arya, ” Arya Organizations: CNN, Fashion Institute of Technology, New York Times, Times, Shein, Getty, United Nations Environment Programme, Greenpeace, George Washington University . Apparel, University of Colorado, Fashion Institute, Technology’s, Thrift Locations: New York, United States, Paris, Zara, Singapore, China, Guangzhou, AFP, India, Bangladesh, Pakistan
An episode of Britain’s BBC game show University Challenge has been falsely suggested online to show contestants, as well as the broadcaster itself, reacting with an antisemitic trope to the 2023 Israel-Hamas war. In an episode aired in August, the team used a dinosaur mascot. “It seems to be quite straightforwardly a case of an octopus just being an octopus.”The mascot on University Challenge did not have a globe within its tentacles. The singled-out individual was not wearing the colours of the Palestinian flag, nor did the team’s octopus mascot belong to her. The octopus was one of several stuffed toy mascots the team used, according to the BBC.
Persons: , Church, Dave Rich, ” David Feldman, David, Read Organizations: BBC, Twitter, Facebook, University of Oxford’s Christ Church, Christ Church, Reuters, University Challenge, Community Security Trust, Birkbeck Institute, Thomson Locations: Israel
[1/8] Waste from international clothing brands is stored before being used to fuel kilns at a brick factory on the outskirts of Phnom Penh, Cambodia November 17, 2023. It found pre-consumer garment waste including fabric, plastic, rubber, and other materials from the brands was being burned at seven factories. The factories were burning garment waste to save on fuel costs, it said. Brick factory workers reported regular migraines, nosebleeds, and other illnesses, the UK report said. LPP said it was unaware its textile waste was being burned in brick kilns, and has contacted its agents responsible for placing orders in Cambodia.
Persons: Lululemon, Co's, Betty, Tilley Endurables, Armour, Lidl, LICADHO, LPP, Tilley, Clare Baldwin, Helen Reid, Katherine Masters Organizations: Cambodian League, Promotion, of Human, REUTERS Acquire, Adidas, Walmart, The Cambodian League, of Human Rights, Reuters, UNDP, Royal Holloway, University of London, Navy, Lidl Stiftung, Reebok, Venus, World, Cambodian Ministry of Environment, Sarom Trading, Thomson Locations: Phnom Penh, Cambodia, Cambodian, Kandal
CNN —A signature white, ruffled shirt once owned by Prince is expected to fetch thousands of dollars in an online auction this week. The Fashion of Prince auction, staged online by US firm RR Auction, comprises 203 items amassed by a French collector, identified only as Bertrand on the company’s website. According to RR Auction, the seller bought the memorabilia directly from designers who worked closely with Prince, as well as from other auction houses. Well known for his lavish wardrobe, Prince wore this style of ruffled white shirt – complete with faux-pearl buttons and shoulder pads – during his “Purple Rain” tour. On the website, they say the seller acquired the garment “directly from a designer” who worked on the “Purple Rain” movie and subsequent tour.
Persons: Prince, Bertrand, , , Bobby Livingston, ” Livingston Organizations: CNN, Hotel Chelsea, Associated Press Locations: North America, New York, Livingston
Setting Off Embroidery Fireworks
  + stars: | 2023-11-14 | by ( Vivian Morelli | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
Some are graduates of École Lesage, the in-house embroidery school, although its training program, which can involve as much as 150 hours of instruction, is not a prerequisite for a job. “The most difficult part is to make,” Mr. Barrère said. “We’re talking about humans, not machines.”Mr. Barrère said it takes at least 100 hours to make an embroidery for a simple ready-to-wear garment. “In haute couture, it’s 600, 800, 1,000 or 2,000 hours of work, it depends,” he continued. Here is how it works:Conveying a ThemeFashion collections usually have themes, and Lesage artisans work with designers and their teams to turn those themes into embroidery.
Persons: “ Lesage, ” Bruno Pavlovsky, École Lesage, Mr, Barrère, , , Lesage, Chanel, Virginie Viard Organizations: École, Paramount Studios Locations: Lesage, Los Angeles
REUTERS/Mohammad Ponir Hossain/File photo Acquire Licensing RightsNEW DELHI, Nov 9 (Reuters) - Global fashion retailers including H&M (HMb.ST) and Gap (GPS.N) are committed to raising purchase prices for Bangladesh-made clothing to help factories there offset higher workers' wages, a U.S.-based association representing more than 1,000 brands said. Asked if they would raise purchase prices by the 5-6% that costs will rise, Stephen Lamar, chief executive of the American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA), told Reuters: "Absolutely". "We also renew our pleas for the adoption of an annual minimum wage review mechanism so that Bangladeshi workers are not disadvantaged by changing macroeconomic conditions." Low wages have helped Bangladesh build its garment industry, which employs about 4 million people. Retailers in the United States and Europe are the main buyers of Bangladesh-made clothes.
Persons: Mohammad Ponir Hossain, Stephen Lamar, Lamar, Sheikh Hasina, Hasina, Krishna N, Ruma Paul, Miral Organizations: The Civil Engineering, REUTERS, Labour, American Apparel & Footwear Association, Reuters, International Labour Organization, Abercrombie & Fitch, Bangladesh, Retailers, Thomson Locations: Dhaka, Bangladesh, DELHI, U.S, China, Vietnam, Cambodia, United States, Europe
On Tuesday, the country’s wage board announced an increase of $113 a month for garment workers, set to take effect December 1. Garment workers in Bangladesh currently make $95 a month producing clothes for big brands such as H&M, Zara and Levi’s. The American Apparel and Footwear Association, or AAFP, which represents brands in the US suggests a timelier minimum wage review. CNN reached out to the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association which represents factory owners for comment but did not hear back. Cambodia now raises its minimum wage for garment workers once a year.
Persons: , , Christina Hajagos, Clausen, Narza Akter, Imran Hossain, ” Matthew Miller, Bangladesh hasn’t, Fitch, Nate Herman, Levi Strauss, Elizabeth Cline, Jason Judd, Judd Organizations: New, New York CNN, Textile and Garment Industry, IndustriALL Global Union, Bangladesh Bureau, Statistics . Garment, Workers, US State Department, United, State Department, McKinsey, US Commerce Department, Puma, Abercrombie, American Apparel and Footwear Association, CNN, Brands, Government, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers, Policy, Columbia University, Consumer, World Bank, Consumers, Global Labor Institute, Cornell University, Workers Rights Consortium Locations: New York, Bangladesh, Zara, Levi’s, China, United States, Southeast Asia, AAFP, Swedish, , Patagonia, Cambodia
[1/5] Garment workers come out of a factory during lunch hours at the Ashulia area, outskirts of Dhaka, Bangladesh, November 8, 2023. A panel of factory owners, union leaders and officials agreed to the increase unanimously, said Siddiqur Rahman, the owners' representative. "We continue to recommend that the government of Bangladesh adopt an annual minimum wage review mechanism to keep up with changing macroeconomic factors," the letter said. In addition to the wage increase, the government has said that workers would be given a 5% annual increment. Babul Akter, president of the Bangladesh Garment and Industrial Workers Federation, urged global brands to pay more, saying: "There could be some problems for the owners to cope with the increased salaries."
Persons: Mohammad Ponir Hossain, Siddiqur Rahman, Rahman, Inditex, Hugo Boss, Fazlul Hoque, Hoque, Levi Strauss, Armour, Sheikh Hasina, Akter, Abdus Salam Murshedy, Murshedy, Krishna N, Ruma Paul, Miral Organizations: REUTERS, Rights DHAKA, Reuters, Inc, Knitwear Manufacturers, Association, Labour, Abercrombie & Fitch, Adidas, Puma, Bangladesh Garment and Industrial Workers Federation, Envoy Group, Walmart, Hasina's Awami League, Das, Thomson Locations: Dhaka, Bangladesh, DELHI, China, Zara, Ukraine, New Delhi
Days after violent protests over wages as low as $80 a month, officials in Bangladesh said on Wednesday they would increase the pay of garment workers by about 50 percent, a concession that appeared to fall short of satisfying thousands of workers who produce clothes for brands like H&M and Zara. Over the weekend, at least two garment factory workers were killed and several police officers wounded in Gazipur District, north of Dhaka, as protesters ratcheted up their longstanding demand for higher wages. The garment industry accounts for more than 80 percent of Bangladesh’s annual exports of about $55 billion, and it is seen as the key driver of Bangladesh’s economic growth in recent decades. More than 50 percent of employees in the industry are women, in a region with abysmal female participation in the formal work force. They are calling for an increase to about $200 a month to meet the rising cost of living.
Persons: Covid lockdowns Locations: Bangladesh, Zara, Gazipur District, Dhaka
[1/3] Security forces remain vigilant in front of the garment factories, following clashes between garment industry workers and police over pay, at the Ashulia area, outskirts of Dhaka, Bangladesh, November 8, 2023. REUTERS/Mohammad Ponir Hossain Acquire Licensing RightsDHAKA, Nov 8 (Reuters) - One female worker was killed and several others were injured in Bangladesh on Wednesday during clashes between police and stone-throwing garment workers who are demanding a bigger pay rise, police said. Following a week of deadly clashes between garment industry workers and police over pay, the Bangladesh government on Tuesday said that the minimum wage would rise by 56.25% to 12,500 taka ($114) a month from Dec. 1, the first increase in five years. Police said they used teargas and rubber bullets to break up protests by hundreds of workers who rejected the new pay rise and took to streets in the garment hub of Gazipur, on the outskirts of the capital Dhaka. Low wages have helped Bangladesh build its garment industry, with some 4,000 factories employing 4 million workers, supplying brands such as H&M and GAP.
Persons: Mohammad Ponir Hossain, Ashraf Uddin, Ruma Paul, Sudipto Ganguly Organizations: Security, REUTERS, Rights DHAKA, Police, GAP, Thomson Locations: Dhaka, Bangladesh, Gazipur
DHAKA, Bangladesh (AP) — Authorities in Bangladesh announced a new salary structure on Tuesday for protesting garment factory workers with a 56% increase in the monthly minimum wage to $113 from the previous $75, a decision rejected by some workers' groups as too small. The decision came after weeks of violent protests by workers demanding a $208 monthly minimum wage. The protests began after the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association offered to increase the monthly minimum wage by 25% to $90. Political Cartoons View All 1234 ImagesThe last increase in the minimum wage was announced in 2018. It says factory owners are under pressure because global brands in Western countries are offering less than before.
Persons: Monnujan Sufian, Kalpona Akter, Akter, Organizations: , State, Labor, Workers, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers, Bangladesh Garment and Industrial Workers Federation, Owners, Bangladesh Locations: DHAKA, Bangladesh, China, United States, Europe, Japan, India
DHAKA, Bangladesh—The armies of people who make clothes for Western brands—some of the lowest-paid factory workers in the world—are protesting for better wages, a fresh sign that the era of ultracheap labor, and ultracheap clothes, on which many companies rely is increasingly under strain. Garment workers in Bangladesh make as little as $3 a day, or about $75 a month. In recent days, tens of thousands have refused to work, calling for the minimum wage to be raised to nearly three times that amount. Demonstrations have spiraled, with factories set ablaze and machines smashed. Some three hundred factories were forced to stop operations.
Locations: DHAKA, Bangladesh
WASHINGTON (AP) — Chinese middlemen launder the proceeds of North Korean hackers’ cyber heists while Chinese ships deliver sanctioned North Korean goods to Chinese ports. China views North Korea as a buffer against the U.S., which maintains a significant troop presence in South Korea. The U.S. has accused North Korea of supplying artillery shells and rockets to Russia, while new evidence shows Hamas fighters likely fired North Korean weapons during their Oct. 7 assault on Israel. “China violates North Korea sanctions it voted for and says won’t work because it’s afraid they’ll work. Such “over-the-counter” brokers allow North Korean hackers to bypass know-your-customer rules governing banks and other financial exchanges.
Persons: , ” Aaron Arnold, Kim Jong Un, , Joshua Stanton, cryptocurrency, Anthony Ruggiero, couldn’t, hadn’t, Eric Penton, Dake Kang Organizations: WASHINGTON, North, Associated, United Nations, Royal United Services Institute, U.S, . Security, North Korean, Kremlin, AP, Treasury, government’s Ministry of Commerce, U.N, Associated Press, Carnegie Corporation of New, Outrider Foundation, Investigative@ap.org Locations: Beijing, Korea, North Korea, China, Pyongyang, South Korea, Ukraine, The U.S, Russia, Israel, North, U.S, Carnegie Corporation of New York
U.S. officials visiting South Africa this week to meet African trade ministers will face calls to reauthorise the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) which expires in 2025. Apparel companies and industry insiders warn that Africa risks a once-in-a-generation shift away from Chinese manufacturing passing it by, with an estimated 240,000 to 290,000 jobs such as Nasimiyu's under threat. Apparel has been the standout success story of AGOA, which launched in 2000 to help develop African economies and foster democracy. African apparel exports under the programme reached nearly $1.4 billion last year, double the amount pre-AGOA. "We've been struck by how open the opportunity is now for us," South African Trade Minister Ebrahim Patel said last week.
Persons: Norah Nasimiyu, Thomas Mukoya, Pankaj Bedi, Norah Nasimiyu's, We've, Ebrahim Patel, Stephen Lamar, Michael Walsh, Constance Hamilton, Biden, Greg Poole, Bedi, Joe Bavier, Duncan Miriri, Alexander Smith Organizations: United Aryan, Processing, The U.S, REUTERS, U.S . Congress, AFRICA Industry, African Trade, United States Fashion Industry Association, American Apparel and Footwear Association, Congress, Research, U.S . International Trade Commission, GSP, UAL, Thomson Locations: Ruaraka district, Nairobi, Kenya, China, NAIROBI, U.S, South Africa, Africa, Philadelphia, Moscow, Beijing, Russia, Lesotho, Madagascar, Ethiopia, AGOA, gridlock, United States, Johannesburg
I thought pantyhose were dead, but now it seems as if they are being treated as the equivalent of actual pants. Are we really supposed to believe the pantyhose-instead-of-pants look I see on social media is going to be a trend? The fashion world became so attached to the End of Pantyhose that editors famously went to shows in February with bare legs and high heels, snow be damned. Then, in September 2022, Matthieu Blazy of Bottega Veneta sent a navy crew neck down his runway paired with only dark hose and heels. Just a few months later, Miuccia Prada largely tossed pants and skirts out the window in her Miu Miu show, subversively matching her librarian cardigans and beatnik polo necks with sheer hose and coordinating undies.
Persons: pantyhose, — Susan, Allen Gant Sr, Matthieu Blazy, Bottega Veneta, Miuccia Prada, Miu Miu, cardigans, Prada, Edie Sedgwick, Andy Warhol’s, Emma Corrin Locations: Vancouver, Bottega
The state hasn't wavered as a conservative stronghold in the modern era, and its last Democratic governor was denied a second term 20 years ago. A former mayor of tiny Nettleton, Presley is wrapping up his fourth term as a state utility regulator for northern Mississippi. One of the most famous Black Mississippi residents, Oscar-winning actor Morgan Freeman, recently joined him at a campaign event. Presley has raised more campaign cash than Reeves this year, and he's attracting larger and more diverse crowds than any Democrat running for Mississippi governor in a generation. Presley says the new method of electing a governor gives him a better chance than the old one.
Persons: Brandon Presley, Tate Reeves, “ They’re, ” Presley, murmurs, , Elvis Presley, Reeves, Presley, Bennie Thompson, Morgan Freeman, Theresa Hall, , we’ll, ” Reeves, Sen, Chuck Younger, “ It’s, ” Younger, it’d, Bruce Springsteen, don’t, William Barber, Barber, , Nick Bain, Medgar Evers, Vernon Dahmer, Fannie Lou Hamer, it's, Democrat Jim Hood, Joe Biden, Mike, Republican Sen, Cindy Hyde, Smith, Thad Cochran, Jim Crow, Eric Holder, Gwendolyn Gray Organizations: Democratic, Republican, U.S . Rep, Mississippi, Tate, Liberal, Black, Democratic Party, Poor, Waffle, Trump, Mississippi Freedom Democratic Party, Democratic National Convention, Democrats, Democrat, U.S . Senate, Mississippi voters, U.S, , Tougaloo College Locations: NATCHEZ, Miss, Mississippi, Natchez, Jackson, Issaquena County, Los Angeles, Columbus, Alabama, U.S, Gulfport, Biloxi, , Black, Atlantic City
THE BURLY MEN of Hollywood suit up for red carpets, but when going about their daily lives, many reach for a henley. You know, the collarless shirt that has a handful of buttons down its front and evokes old-fashioned underwear. In recent years Idris Elba, Brad Pitt and all the Chrises (Evans, Hemsworth, Pine and Pratt) have sported this garment, unbuttoned to achieve varying degrees of pectoral exposure. But plenty of mortals like it too. “The henley has a classic, masculine vibe,” said Patrick Burch, founder of Phoenix menswear store Cave & Post Trading Co., adding that fitted ones are a staple for “rugged, in-shape dudes.” According to Harry Hill, 29, a New York writer, podcaster and henley evangelist, a waffle-knit style ranks among the sexiest items a man can wear.
Persons: Idris Elba, Brad Pitt, Evans, Pratt, , Patrick Burch, Harry Hill, podcaster Organizations: MEN, Hollywood, henley, Phoenix Locations: Hemsworth, Pine, henley, New York
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