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LOW-KEY LUXURY At the fall fashion shows, many designers proposed quiet, classic clothes rife with sophistication. From left: fall looks from Fendi, the Row and Loro Piana. This season put an end to that. Perhaps inspired by political and economic uncertainty, or maybe by the fact that women exist in the tangible world again, not just behind filtered screens, brands including Saint Laurent, the Row, Bottega Veneta and Fendi turned out exquisitely wearable, sometimes understated clothes. The shift in tone resonated with guests, some of whom are cautiously optimistic it might last beyond this crucial season for the brand.
It will boost transformation in the Italian fashion industry’s production models, said Gucci in a joint release with French parent Kering. “Luxury brands generally have strong and transparent supply chains and an opportunity to better communicate sourcing quality,” they said. “Luxury brands have the burden to stand for our better selves, as they embody people’s aspirations and ideals,” Mr. Solca said. In 2018, U.K. luxury fashion house Burberry said it would stop burning unsold inventory amid pressure from environmental groups, but some peers continue the practice. The hub’s activities will later be extended to Kering’s other brands, before opening to the wider fashion sector.
LONDON, Feb 20 (Reuters) - Faux fur, oversized coats and hot water bottles dominated Burberry’s (BRBY.L) runway as Daniel Lee presented his vision for the British heritage label at London Fashion Week on Monday. Burberry's mackintosh-style trench coat was re-imagined in a muted khaki with green faux fur lapels. English rose patterned tailoring sat alongside chunky rubber boots with an equestrian twist and cosy square toed shearling and faux fur shoes in the Autumn Winter 2023 collection. Monday's show follows the unveiling of Burberry's new logo: a sleeker elongated typeface and a campaign steeped in "Britishness". Lee previously created a buzz at Italy's Bottega Veneta with pillowy leather clutch handbags and slip-on heels.
[1/2] A man looks at a window display outside a Gucci store, part of the Kering group, at Tsim Sha Tsui shopping district in Hong Kong January 17, 2013. But while Gucci, which accounts for the bulk of profits and revenues at Kering, was the only brand to post a fall in sales, analysts said other labels too posted lower-than-forecast results. Kering said sales fell by 15% in North America in the fourth quarter and by 19% in Asia Pacific. But the situation has been more complicated for Kering, since Gucci relies more heavily on China than competitors. LVMH's fashion and leather goods division, home to Louis Vuitton and Dior, grew sales by 10% over the fourth quarter.
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A drenching is always amusing, but it’s her tutu that makes that scene indelible. The show’s costume designer, Patricia Field, was insistent on the garment, saying in an interview, “Whatever she’s wearing has to be completely original to last in time.”That iconic look embodies “big-skirt energy,” a mood dominating the resort and spring 2023 collections. A skirt needn’t literally be big to possess BSE. But whether maxi or midi, spangled or satin, printed or plain, it must project outsize attitude. And women are gravitating to that, reports Marc Rofsky, a buying director at e-commerce site Moda Operandi, who’s seen year-over-year, double-digit growth in skirts between October and January 2023.
PARIS—Gucci-owner Kering SA has tapped a senior Estée Lauder Cos. executive to lead a new beauty division, as the luxury giant looks to expand in cosmetics and perfumes. Raffaella Cornaggia will help develop beauty offerings for brands including Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga and Alexander McQueen. Kering said the Italian national would bring strong experience to a strategically important area.
“Demand for higher-priced luxury brands at resale is down, which is pushing prices for brands like Chanel, Gucci and Louis Vuitton down.”At the same time, she said, demand for previously owned lower-priced luxury brands — such as Miu Miu and Bottega Veneta — is up. They are no longer willing to pay the same price at resale that were willing to pay last year for brands like Hermes, Gucci and Louis Vuitton,” Skoda added. According to The RealReal’s Annual Luxury Consignment Report 2023, which was released Thursday, handbag resale prices fell 20% for Louis Vuitton, 17% for Gucci, 10% for Hermès and 9% for Chanel over the past 90 days. Resale prices are cooling somewhat for luxury handbag brands like Gucci and Louis Vuitton, according to The RealReal. As they embrace lower prices, resale shoppers have become less picky about the condition of the items they buy.
Burberry's sales growth slows to 1% on China COVID hit
  + stars: | 2023-01-18 | by ( ) www.reuters.com   time to read: +1 min
LONDON, Jan 18 (Reuters) - British luxury brand Burberry's (BRBY.L) like-for-like sales growth slowed sharply to 1% in the quarter to end-December as COVID-19-related disruption in mainland China largely offset a stronger performance in Europe. It had reported growth of 11% for the previous quarter. Burberry's like-for-like sales in Europe, Middle East, India and Africa grew 19%, it said, but in other regions they fell. Mainland China, Burberry's biggest market, was down 23%, while the rest of Asia fell 7% and the Americas were down 1%. Burberry's new chief designer Daniel Lee, who was previously creative director at Bottega Veneta, will present his first runway collection for the house next month at London Fashion Week.
PARIS/MILAN, Jan 13 (Reuters) - Gucci kicked off Milan fashion week on Friday with a lineup of slouchy, androgynous menswear styles, forging ahead with its latest collection while the industry waits for owner Kering (PRTP.PA) to name a new designer for the label. The question of who will steer Gucci's creative direction loomed over the megabrand's first men's show in the Italian fashion capital in three years. Events run through Jan. 17, drawing an audience that includes major retail buyers sizing up which styles might be future top sellers. Gucci held back on marketing investments during the pandemic, while larger rival LVMH's two biggest labels Louis Vuitton and Dior pushed ahead, a move that analysts say helped them gain ground on rivals. Despite the current turbulence at Kering, however, expectations are high given the group's strong track record nurturing brands, analysts say.
From the outside, it doesn't look as if Charnas' company is in trouble. Mark Sagliocco/Getty Images for Beach MagazineSeveral former employees told Insider they cut ties with Something Navy because they saw signs the company was struggling. Several current and former Something Navy employees told Insider they'd been inundated with emails since the spring from suppliers, freelancers, and models asking where their money was. In one email viewed by Insider, Scanlan told a supplier that cash was tight but promised payment was on the way. The current Something Navy employee said that based on data she'd seen, the retail locations most likely don't turn a profit.
Gucci designer’s exit boosts Kering’s M&A urgency
  + stars: | 2022-11-24 | by ( Lisa Jucca | ) www.reuters.com   time to read: +3 min
MILAN, Nov 24 (Reuters Breakingviews) - The abrupt departure of star Gucci designer Alessandro Michele on Wednesday is putting French luxury boss François-Henri Pinault on the spot. The Italian brand, Kering’s (PRTP.PA) largest, has been a money-spinner for the 68 billion euro French conglomerate. Gucci revenue nearly trebled to 9.6 billion euros between 2014 and 2019. Reuters GraphicsFollow @LJucca on TwitterCONTEXT NEWSKering’s top brand Gucci said on Nov. 23 Creative Director Alessandro Michele had stepped down. Under Michele’s creative leadership, Gucci sales grew nearly three times from 2014 to 9.6 billion euros in 2019, one of the best performing brands in the luxury world.
He has already made his key appointment in choosing Daniel Lee to replace Riccardo Tisci as chief designer at the 166-year-old label. Leather goods account for around 20% of Burberry's sales versus 70% at Bottega Veneta. Tisci, in turn, changed Burberry's design language by introducing a TB monogram, that increased the brand's appeal to younger luxury consumers. The final stages of Burberry's five-year plan were expected to see an acceleration in revenue growth and an increase in profits. Burberry's rivals - led by French luxury leaders LVMH (LVMH.PA) and Kering (PRTP.PA) - in contrast, have most recently reported double-digit sales growth in the quarter to the end of September.
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