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And she didn’t just lend her (fake) name to the invitation: She lent her address too, co-hosting the event at her East Village walk-up. (Well, until her immigration case is resolved, Ms. Sorokin can’t leave the building.) Actually, it was on the silver-painted tar-papered roof of her East Village walk-up. The show was the brainchild of Kelly Cutrone, a fashion publicist who was the subject of the 2010 Bravo reality show “Kell on Earth.” Ms. Cutrone had invited Ms. Sorokin to team up on a “pop-up P.R. Ms. Sorokin does, after all, have a history in understanding the way fashion could be used to manipulate those around her.
Persons: Anna Delvey, Julia Garner, Shao, Shao Yang, Sorokin can’t, Kelly Cutrone, “ Kell, Ms, Cutrone, Sorokin, , , LaCroix seltzers, Delvey, “ We’re Organizations: Netflix, Bravo Locations: New York, Germany
Fashion Tribes of New York
  + stars: | 2023-09-11 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | More About Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
It’s been a while since New York was the main character in any costume drama, a while since it starred as anything other than a problem: abandoned, messy, crime-ridden, economically challenged. But as New York Fashion Week began, the city’s designers were telling a different story. One about the city as a place of chaos, movement and dreams. “I was thinking about the inspiration that New York has given me, and it made me want to explore New York style archetypes, and my own personal New York style archetypes, from when I came to the city for my first job,” Stuart Vevers said in a preview before his lively 10th-anniversary Coach show, held in the heart of Midtown Manhattan at the New York Public Library. They were part of the New York of his mind, a place where people come from elsewhere (Mr. Vevers is British) and find their tribe, which isn’t necessarily defined by geography any more — by uptown or downtown, east or west — but rather by state of mind.
Persons: It’s, , ” Stuart Vevers, Vevers, slouchy pantsuits Organizations: York, New York Public Library, Pyramid Club Locations: New York, York, New, Midtown Manhattan
When does a style become a classic? I have read all the discussions about whether skinny jeans are still in, but if a particular style is a classic, isn’t it always in? It’s pretty much impossible to pinpoint a moment when a piece of work becomes a classic because the label is one that gets added in hindsight. (Except, perhaps, for the word “pulviscular,” which as far as I am concerned is an instant classic.) One of the reasons a classic is a classic is that it can morph to reflect contemporary styles while never losing its core identity.
Persons: Nisha, Potter Stewart’s, , , you’ll, Lazaro Hernandez, Jack McCollough, Proenza Schouler Organizations: v . Ohio, The New York Locations: New York, v .
Once, back in the early 2000s, I owned a black Helmut Lang pantsuit. That was a time when even the word “pantsuit” kind of made me cringe, but there was something about how this one was cut — three-button, single-breasted jacket and flat-front (but louche) pants — that skewed all its establishment implications. I wore it until I wore it out, and have been in mourning for it ever since. When I talk about it, which I still do, there is almost always another person who will come up to me with a story of their Helmut Lang. Mr. Lang wanted to go first, so he hopscotched to early September, and the entire city went with him.
Persons: Helmut Lang pantsuit, Helmut Lang, Lang Organizations: New York, Paris ., Mr, Retailing Locations: New, Paris, Paris . New York
In a deal that shows the ever-growing convergence of fashion and fame, François-Henri Pinault, the French billionaire and chief executive of the luxury goods company Kering, said on Thursday that his family office had bought a majority stake in one of Hollywood’s biggest talent agencies, Creative Artists Agency. Mr. Pinault’s family office, Artémis, already has investments that include the auction house Christie’s and a stake in Puma, and like them, CAA will be managed separately from Kering, which owns such brands as Gucci, Saint Laurent and Balenciaga. The announcement comes as talent — actors, singers, filmmakers — has become a uniquely powerful tool in selling products. There is now a growing race among fashion brands to lock in relationships with the next big name. “There’s no separation between fashion and entertainment any more,” said Robert Burke, the eponymous founder of a luxury consultancy, calling the deal a “natural, if unprecedented, evolution.”
Persons: Henri Pinault, Pinault’s, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, , , , Robert Burke Organizations: Creative Artists Agency, Mr, Puma, CAA, Gucci Locations: Kering
“The Victoria’s Secret World Tour,” which will stream on Amazon Prime on Sept. 26, is a putting-their-platform-where-their-mouth-is movie conceived to showcase the work of “a new generation of creatives” (all female, of course) from four major cities — Lagos, Nigeria; London; Bogotá; and Tokyo — the better to convince the world that this really is a new Victoria’s Secret. “To finally say, ‘This is it, this is who we are,’” said Raul Martinez, the brand’s chief creative director. “We haven’t forgotten our past, but we’re also speaking to the present. To take our platform, understand the power of that, but show up with a different narrative.”Which is what, exactly? “Hot” is an association the new Victoria’s Secret would rather stay far away from.
Persons: Hadid, , ’ ”, Raul Martinez, we’re, Akech, Lila Moss Hack, Honey Dijon, Julia Fox, Adriana Lima, Candice Swanepoel Organizations: Prime Locations: — Lagos, Nigeria, London, Tokyo, Spain, Barcelona
After seasons of relative calm and predictability (some might say stultifying sameness), Milan has become the city to watch, with the two debuts of the season. First up: Sabato De Sarno at Gucci. Then there’s Peter Hawkings, another longtime deputy, who became the creative director of Tom Ford in April after the brand was sold to Estée Lauder and Mr. Ford stepped down. Mr. Hawkings worked beside Mr. Ford for decades, and judging by his official portrait, is very much in the mold of his mentor (down to the tinted aviators). The result is pretty much guaranteed to remind of us what we lost when we lost the very talented Mr. Moschino at only 44 in 1994 and why brand founders really matter.
Persons: Sabato De Sarno, Gucci, Valentino, Alessandro Michele, Peter Hawkings, Tom Ford, Estée Lauder, Ford, Hawkings, Jeremy Scott, — Katie Grand, Carlyne Cerf, Dudzeele, Gabriella Karefa, Johnson, Lucia Liu —, Moschino Organizations: Mr Locations: Milan
I have always enjoyed wearing vintage clothing and used to love going to flea markets, picking up items and saying: “My grandmother wore that,” or “My mother had those.” Then it happened: I picked up a dress and said, “I owned that!” When you get old enough to remember the first time around, can you still wear retro without looking dated? Loving resale is a good thing, no question, but it has also led to a situation where the whole meaning of “vintage” has become confused with “used clothes” and “retro” — which are, in fact, not actually synonyms. There is, as it turns out, no generally accepted definition of “vintage” — The Vou.com newsletter describes it as “any object representing a previous era or social period, at least 20 years old but not older than 100 years.” Vestiaire says that vintage is “15 years old or older.” Many other sites use the term simply to mean old — and by “old,” I mean last season. Let me tell you: “Vintage” does not mean last season. And that, in answer to your question, has absolutely no age limit.
Persons: , Z, ” Vestiaire Organizations: Cambridge Locations: Larchmont, N.Y
After the mug shot, the marketing. First out of the gate, not surprisingly, was the Trump campaign itself, which overnight splashed the picture on a variety of merch. Hours later, the Never Trumpers, otherwise known as the Lincoln Project, had also reproduced the mug shot on a — pun alert — shot glass, along with the acronym “F.A.F.O.” and the exhortation to “Raise a glass to justice.” Not long after that, Green Day, the punk band, offered a T-shirt on Instagram that had swapped out the portraits on the cover of its 1997 “Nimrod” album with the mug shot. Between the two poles is a veritable bonanza of stuff on sites like Redbubble and Etsy, where if you search “Trump mug shot,” more than a dozen pages of products come up, pro-Trump and anti-Trump alike. That while we may have lost the skill of constructive dialogue, we all still speak T-shirt?
Persons: Donald J, Trump, , Nimrod Organizations: Sheriff’s, Lincoln, Green, Trump Locations: Fulton County ,
A Trump Mug Shot for History
  + stars: | 2023-08-25 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | More About Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +2 min
The prosecutors in the other three Trump cases, both state and federal, have refrained from taking mug shots of Mr. Trump at all, given that he is one of the most recognizable people in the world and not considered a flight risk. Georgia laws, however, dictate that a mug shot be taken for a felony offense, and the Georgia sheriff in charge of booking has said that all defendants will be treated equally. And Mr. Trump is a man who has always understood the power and language of theater. That’s part of why the “would they or wouldn’t they” discussion about mug shots resurfaced each time an indictment was handed down. In its concrete reality, the Fulton County mug shot may seem more irrevocable than anything else that has happened in the Trump cases thus far — at least until the two sides enter a courtroom.
Persons: Trump’s, Trump, Organizations: Trump Locations: Georgia, Fulton
The Secrets of Debate Swag
  + stars: | 2023-08-23 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | More About Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
And before you can say “in my prime” or “too honest,” it will end up on a T-shirt in a candidate’s store. At a point in the electoral cycle when candidates are desperate to distinguish themselves and have only minutes onstage to do so, being able to deliver a zinger that will play on via swag is a key advantage. Ever since the inauguration of George Washington, voters have been participating in the electoral process by means of merch. Back then, it was fancy commemorative buttons that were sewn onto clothes (and were, largely, accessible only to the well-off). Now, almost as soon as presidential contenders declare their candidacy and their websites go live, the shops go live with them.
Persons: George Washington Organizations: Republican Locations: swag
That will be followed in November by “Iris van Herpen. All of which should add up to a potent reminder of the breadth and contributions of women designers — not to mention a spur for the future. They decided to team up, but the Covid-19 pandemic intervened, postponing the show to this year. The result showcases the work of about 70 designers held in the Costume Institute’s collection, which stretches from the turn of the 20th century to today and includes names both famous (Jeanne Lanvin, Claire McCardell) and little known (Augusta Bernard, Madeleine & Madeleine). And it is a reminder that once upon a time, the industry looked very different.
Persons: Gaby Aghion, , “ Iris van Herpen, , Mellissa Huber, Karen Van Godtsenhoven, Huber, Van Godtsenhoven, Andrew Bolton, Jeanne Lanvin, Claire McCardell, Augusta Bernard, Madeleine Organizations: Jewish Museum, Institute Locations: New York, Paris
Look, how she defies age! And it is possible that the magazine is simply depicting the women as they want to be shown. According to a Vogue spokeswoman, though, “Vogue retains final editorial control of the creative, fashion and video shoots that appear on any of its platforms.”Certainly, images of models at every age are retouched (sometimes ridiculously so). And there is no question that the former supes look extraordinary for their age. When looking at photos of teenagers and 20-somethings, it is possible to delude yourself into accepting the impossibly flawless nature of what you see.
Persons: Carmen Dell’Orefice, Apo, Naomi Campbell Organizations: Vogue Czechoslovakia, Vogue Philippines, Vogue
If you watch winners in dresses, you think winners wear dresses. And it exists, Ms. Fleshman said, “until someone asks to change it.” Until someone says, effectively, “Wait — why are we doing it this way?”Wait. Wait, why are athletes wearing white shorts and wondering if spectators can tell they are menstruating instead of focusing on doing their job? Wait, why are the armholes of basketball jerseys so enormous that they act like windows to the sports bra? Or so found Hajo Adam, an organizational psychologist at the University of Bath in England, and Adam D. Galinsky in their 2012 paper, “Enclothed Cognition,” which looked at the effect white lab coats have on the wearers.
Persons: Sepp Blatter, Fleshman, “ It’s, Ms, Howard, , Adam, Adam D Organizations: FIFA, AIBA, University of Bath, Durham University, aha Locations: England
I’ll be visiting Europe for the first time this summer and need advice for stylish walking shoes. — Jennifer, SeattleBy your shoes, they shall know you. Shoes may not be the windows to the soul, but for a long time they were the source of national stereotype. You could tell an Italian banker because he was the one in brown shoes, no matter what color his suit. The British, on the other hand, went around intoning “no brown in town.” American tourists wore sneakers.
Persons: I’ll, Jennifer, I’m, Hakeem Jeffries, Serena Williams, Birks, don’t Organizations: Montaigne Locations: Europe, Seattle, Italian, Birkenstocks
Being asked to officiate for a friend’s or relative’s wedding is an honor. Sean Parker, of Napster and Facebook fame, reportedly asked Sir Ian McKellen to officiate at his 2013 “Lord of the Rings”-themed wedding dressed as Gandalf. When it comes to officiating, the wedding couple’s wishes come first. That means that when it comes to deciding what to wear, the first thing to do is understand the wishes of the couple. You would not wear the same thing to officiate at a beach wedding as you would a country club wedding as you would a backyard wedding; evening weddings demand different clothes than lunchtime weddings, and so on.
Persons: — Kathleen, Sean Parker, Sir Ian McKellen, Sir Ian Organizations: S.C, Napster, Facebook Locations: Columbia
It was the bald head that became the avatar of a million dreamy rebellions; the shaved pate that bridged the gap between the angry and the sublime. It is almost impossible to think about Sinead O’Connor, the Irish singer whose death was reported on July 26, or her work, without thinking about her hair. Or lack of it. Even in the few periods when she grew her hair back, she was often referred to as the “formerly bald” Sinead O’Connor. And as such, she was an integral part of the renegotiation of old stereotypes of gender, sexuality, rebellion and liberation that is still going on today.
Persons: Sinead O’Connor, , O’Connor, Martens, Pope Organizations: Irish, Ireland ” — Locations: Ireland
I recently bought a vintage 1980s Italian designer silk chiffon dress with matching belt and jacket, in somewhat fragile condition. And is there a way to keep sweat off the delicate fabric so I can wear it more places? So it’s worth recognizing that while vintage shopping is a laudable and sometimes highly satisfying practice, one rife with the promise of unique and unexpected finds — the mystery of what might be unearthed! Not to mention a slightly different way of thinking about exactly what you are buying and its role in your life. (Vintage shopping for collectible pieces is a whole different matter with a different value proposition.)
Persons: Abigail, Cameron Silver Organizations: OG Locations: Alameda, Calif, Los Angeles
At first it seemed impossible to imagine: No more red carpets! No more photos of movie stars and names to watch in fabulous gowns blanketing the internet. Could “Oppenheimer” and “Barbie” be the last gasp of that marketing Valhalla of fashion and film that was the modern premiere — at least for the foreseeable future? That means film festivals with all their associated dressing and posing opportunities. Actors sign contracts that can be worth millions, negotiated by agents and managers, to be brand ambassadors, appearing in some combination of advertisements, front rows, store openings and red carpets, dressed by stylists, generating coverage, desire and, most of all, publicity for everyone involved.
Persons: “ Oppenheimer, Barbie ”, Organizations: SAG
For years, Marco Bizzarri was one of the most well-known and respected executives in the global luxury business. Bald and boldly suited, he was the architect behind the meteoric success of Gucci, the largest fashion brand in the stable owned by the French group Kering, which also includes Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta and Saint Laurent. The news was buried in the third paragraph of a memo Kering released that outlined a major organizational shake-up as François-Henri Pinault, the chairman and chief executive, tries to write a new chapter for the fortunes of Gucci and the conglomerate. In the same announcement, Kering said Francesca Bellettini, the chief executive of Yves Saint Laurent, would become the conglomerate’s deputy chief executive for brand development, a promotion that will require all Kering brand chief executives to report to her and make her one of the most powerful women in the luxury industry. Jean-Marc Duplaix, Kering’s chief financial officer, will also become a deputy chief executive, overseeing operations and finance.
Persons: Marco Bizzarri, Gucci, Saint Laurent, Alessandro Michele, Bizzarri’s, Kering, Henri Pinault, Francesca Bellettini, Yves Saint Laurent, Jean, Marc Duplaix Organizations: Saint, Gucci Locations: Bottega Veneta
I’m going on a two-week hiking trip in August and am trying to figure out what to pack. We’re limited to about 33 pounds, so I need to pack light. I’d love to put together a wardrobe that’s practical, chic and wearable beyond the trip. The capsule holiday wardrobe is the holy grail of travel: an interchangeable, efficient system of dressing that in an ideal world necessitates no more than a tote and a bag that will fit in an airplane overhead bin. The weight of stuff falls from your shoulders, as does the time spent deciding what to wear.
Persons: Suzanne, Vuitton, Elizabeth Taylor, ogle, it’s, Erik Maza Organizations: tote, Town Locations: Saratoga Springs, N.Y
That was where, as golden hour set in, a magic Valentino show began — with Kaia Gerber in a pair of jeans and a white shirt. Granted, they weren’t just any jeans: they were made from silk gazar entirely embroidered in micro beads dyed 80 different shades of indigo to resemble denim, but still. They looked like jeans. Jeans — or their very fancy doppelgängers — have been the biggest trend of the week. There were more jeans, likewise made from trompe l’oeil beading, in the Jean Paul Gaultier collection guest designed by Julien Dossena, and lots of jeans in all stages of distress at Balenciaga, which also were not denim at all but oil-painted canvas that took two and a half months to create.
Persons: Valentino, Kaia Gerber, upcycled Levi’s, Jean Paul Gaultier, Julien Dossena Locations: Paris, Chantilly
She’s been very successful without having sex tapes, without having to go through all the things that her sister had to go through. He had his good run of 10 years, and I think his era is slowly going to its finish line. Now it is my time.”Is that why he chose to post his Madonna reveal not long after the Balenciaga couture show? They spent a month lost in the mountains before eventually making their way to Düsseldorf, Germany, where the boys grew up. (In 2021, Guram told Forbes Georgia that if his family had stayed in Georgia, “I would probably be running for president.”)
Persons: , Kim, Kylie, Kylie’s, Serena Williams, Serena, It’s, “ Balenciaga, , Gvasalia, Julie Gilhart, , Demna, Guram, Vetements Organizations: Tomorrow Consulting, Forbes Locations: Balenciaga, Sokhumi , Georgia, Düsseldorf, Germany, Forbes Georgia, Georgia
In 1955 the idea of the gray flannel suit as the symbol of the soul-deadened corporate drone entered the American lexicon thanks to Sloan Wilson’s novel, making it pretty much impossible to look at that particular item of clothing in a neutral way ever again. It became the stand-in for our skewed work-life balance, the triumph of business over imagination. On Monday in Paris, however, he took it to a new level: the couture. Effectively proposing that the gray suit deserved the same mythic status as the Chanel bouclé suit or the YSL Smoking or the Dior Bar. And that American fashion (not fashion by an American, but fashion with its roots overtly in American culture) deserves its place on the couture stage.
Persons: Sloan, Thom Browne, Chanel Organizations: Dior Locations: York, Paris
But it’s also possible to see in all these Swiftian clothes, all the wardrobe switcheroos, something else. And a message that Ms. Swift is, perhaps, calling time on the whole thing. The promise of reinvention is a core American value: the belief that everyone has the right to a fresh start, that you are limited only by your imagination and abilities. Yet it is also its own kind of prison, as Ms.
Persons: it’s, Swift, , Taylor, ” Taylor
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