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Search resuls for: "Wylie Dufresne"


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“I think my job is to make things that no one else would make,” Mr. Stupak told an interviewer not long ago. Today, with Victoria Blamey between gigs and Wylie Dufresne making pizza, Mr. Stupak may be the last chef in New York who regularly tries to bend reality as if it were ganache. The “deviled egg floating island” is neither. It’s a meringue cylinder with a dome of creamed yolk on top and an unsweetened crème anglaise around the base. You don’t get the mustardy sharpness of a real deviled egg or the sweetness of a real floating island, but it’s fine because the whole dish is really just an excuse to eat trout roe.
Persons: Mr, Stupak, El, Stupak’s, Mischa, Victoria Blamey, Wylie Dufresne, don’t Locations: Alinea, Chicago, Empellón, New York
When pizza geeks are talking, no step in the process of mixing and rising and baking of pizza is too technical, no detail is too granular. They speak to one another about the hydration of their dough, the effect of long fermentation times, the digestibility of the crust. Which ought to mean that the time is right for a Wylie Dufresne pizzeria, such as Stretch Pizza, which he recently opened on Park Avenue South. No other chef did as much as Mr. Dufresne to make kitchen geekery cool. His restaurant wd-50 was the city’s foremost laboratory for pure and applied food science.
Persons: Dufresne
Total: 2