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MILAN (AP) — Hot off Taylor Swift’s Golden Globe red-carpet triumph for Gucci in glittering green, the Italian brand’s creative director plunged into his menswear debut on the first day of Milan Fashion Week on Friday with somewhat shimmery, slightly subversive classics. The logo was sparing: Gucci was emblazoned in subtle raised letters on leather bags, the double-G logo appeared as repeating patterns on slim suits and the Gucci stripe inside coat slits. Bondage touches came in trailing silk ties fastened around the neck with silver hardware and half gloves in leather. The power of pairing was best displayed in a shirtless look with straight trousers, the double-G belt drifting to the hip. With a versatile sporty-to-tailored-to-dance floor silhouette, the collection was blinged up with kaleidoscopic crystal-covered tanks or trousers, or shimmery shaggy lurex coats that mix light and motion.
Persons: Taylor, Gucci, Sabato De Sarno’s, , De Sarno, sequins, ’ De Sarno, Elliot Page, Idris Elba, Sabrina Elba Organizations: MILAN, Globe Locations: Italian, Milan
Yet, if Gucci’s new designer Sabato de Sarno was rattled before he took his bow for the Italian luxury house at Milan fashion week on Friday, he didn’t show it. Where Michele was an overt maximalist with retro references, de Sarno mined the Gucci archive and codes in a more stripped-back way. Oxblood red dominated the collection, inspired by The Savoy hotel in London where Guccio Gucci worked in the late 1800s. The bling was, in fact, a reference to the Marina jewelry collection that appeared in Gucci campaigns in the late 1960s. The rest of the embellished crystal designs were inspired by embroideries de Sarno found on 1960s clutch bags in the Gucci archive.
Persons: Milan, Sabato de Sarno, Alessandro Michele’s, De Sarno, Julia Roberts, Ryan Gosling, Jessica Chastain, Kendall Jenner, Julia Garner, Francois, Henri Pinault, Swan, Gucci Ancora ”, , de Sarno, Prada, Gabbana, Valentino, Michele, Jackie, , Guccio Gucci, Daniele Venturelli, “ Rosso Ancora, , Sabato De Sarno, Gucci, Kering, Daria Werbowy, Tom Ford Gucci, embroideries de Sarno Organizations: Milan CNN, Brera, Gucci, Dolce Locations: Milan, , Savoy, London, Naples
De Sarno’s debut Friday, nine months after being hired in the wake of Michele’s surprise departure, was the most anticipated on the Milan Fashion Week calendar for next spring and summer womenswear. The fervor was enough to fill the front row with Hollywood A-listers including Julia Roberts and Ryan Gosling. In one recent interview, De Sarno professed admiration for Brutalist architecture, suggesting a love of the essential, and his collection was exactly that. A tiny leather bra top in embossed leather was paired with a matching midi skirt. The conversation started this week by De Sarno is to be continued.
Persons: — Sabato De Sarno, Gucci —, “ Gucci Ancora, “ Gucci, De Sarno, Alessandro Michele, Sarno’s, Julia Roberts, Ryan Gosling, Tom Ford, Guccio Gucci, De, tinsel, Organizations: MILAN, Prada, Dolce, Gabbana, Milan, Hollywood, Gucci Locations: Valentino, London, Brera
MILAN/PARIS, Sept 19 (Reuters) - Gucci creative director Sabato De Sarno takes to the runway in Milan on Friday, in a high-stakes designer debut for the Italian label’s owner, French luxury group Kering (PRTP.PA). De Sarno’s Gucci catwalk presentation – one of the industry’s most highly-anticipated shows this year – will serve as an aesthetic reset for the brand, aimed at reigniting sales, but it is also the first major test of a sweeping overhaul at Kering. The group has also taken steps to broaden its revenue sources, announcing plans to buy high end perfumer Creed in June and a 30% stake in fashion label Valentino in July. “We don’t think that a margin reset would be badly received by the market,” said Carole Madjo, analyst with Barclays. Reporting by Mimosa Spencer and Elisa Anzolin Editing by Tomasz JanowskiOur Standards: The Thomson Reuters Trust Principles.
Persons: Gucci, Sabato De Sarno, De Sarno’s Gucci, Valentino, Louis, Jean, Francois Palus, Marco Bizzarri, De Sarno’s, Bizzarri, Alessandro Michele, De Sarno's, Sabato De Sarno's, , Carole Madjo, Daria Werbowy, Luca Solca, Bernstein, Mimosa Spencer, Elisa Anzolin, Tomasz Janowski Organizations: MILAN, Louis Vuitton, Dior . Group, Gucci, RBC, Barclays, De, Thomson Locations: PARIS, Milan, Kering
PARIS, Jan 30 (Reuters) - Sabato De Sarno, newly appointed by Kering (PRTP.PA) to reinvigorate its prized Gucci brand, needs to spark heat with a new direction, analysts say - a delicate task, given the emphasis executives have also put on the label's timeless appeal. De Sarno, a senior fashion designer from Valentino, is tasked as creative director with reviving the fortunes of the brand that accounted for two-thirds of Kering's profits in 2021. Analysts welcomed Kering's choice of a seasoned but relatively unknown designer, noting that previous creative director Michele did not have a public profile when he was appointed in 2002. His experience at Valentino suggests a "less eccentric aesthetic" than Gucci's previous designer, noted Carole Madjo of Barclays. The designer rose through Valentino's ranks after his arrival in 2009 to become fashion director overseeing both the men's and women's collections, working closely with chief designer Pierpaolo Piccioli.
New Gucci designer has big sneakers to fill
  + stars: | 2023-01-30 | by ( ) www.reuters.com   time to read: +2 min
MILAN, Jan 30 (Reuters Breakingviews) - Gucci’s new creative head Sabato De Sarno is stepping onto a wobbly catwalk. François-Henri Pinault’s conglomerate Kering (PRTP.PA) on Saturday picked the 39-year-old from smaller fashion house Valentino to lead its biggest brand and succeed star designer Alessandro Michele, who left abruptly in November. Michele’s daring designs, which he applied lavishly on anything from shirts to sneakers, helped Gucci sales shoot up to nearly 10 billion euros in 2019. But at around 10.5 billion euros in 2022, Gucci sales are expected to have risen only 10% since then. They do not reflect the views of Reuters News, which, under the Trust Principles, is committed to integrity, independence, and freedom from bias.
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