WHY ARE less-acclaimed wines so often compared to their more-famous counterparts by means of a diminutive term? I’m thinking of Rosso di Montalcino, the red wine from Tuscany that’s often referred to as “baby Brunello.” Although Brunello di Montalcino and Rosso di Montalcino are made in the same place from the same grape, Brunello is considered one of the world’s best wines; Rosso, more of an also-ran. But is that fair, or even accurate? Talking with Brunello producers in the past several weeks, I found them just as focused on making a first-rate Rosso as a great Brunello. After tasting some 15 Rossos, I think many of those producers have succeeded in making Brunello-like wines that cost a lot less.

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Persons: Rosso di Montalcino, Montalcino, Rosso Locations: Tuscany