At Shukette, the line between dips and nondips can be a fine one.
You may be lukewarm about the ginger-scented meatballs of fresh albacore but compelled by the stiff bed of yogurt under them, salty with preserved lemons.
For those crusts, Shukette has four kinds of bread, all baked or grilled or griddled to order.
Shukette’s approach to Middle Eastern cooking — built around extremely fresh produce, laced with smoke, and profligate with herbs and spices — is overdue in New York.
The city’s chefs, though, have been slow to take a modern approach to the cooking of the Mediterranean’s eastern and southern rims.
Shukette, Moroccan, New York, Philadelphia, Los Angeles, Manhattan