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8 mentions found


☆ You Know About Rockefeller Center’s Tree. Here’s Where to Eat Nearby.
  + stars: | 2023-11-23 | by ( Pete Wells | More About Pete Wells | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: 1 min
As a local, I ought to hate anything in New York that draws a crowd. In theory, this includes the tree at Rockefeller Center. I don’t hate the tree, though. The secret to surviving in crowded spaces is to know where you are going. This gives you a huge advantage over those around you, most of whom are helplessly drifting in the tide, like jellyfish.
Organizations: Rockefeller Center Locations: New York
☆ The Real End of David Chang’s Momofuku Ko Happened Years Ago
  + stars: | 2023-10-28 | by ( Pete Wells | More About Pete Wells | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +2 min
It was the restaurant where we first witnessed a frozen torchon of foie gras being shaved to make a mountain of salty pink snow. Where we had our first spoonful of panna cotta that tasted like the milk in the bottom of a bowl of cornflakes. Rational people began to blame their inability to score on nefarious bots and scalpers, a preview of things to come. Behind this was Mr. Chang’s hunch that the paraphernalia of fine dining — not just white tablecloths but maybe even tables themselves — had become clunky and dated. “Cook’s prices,” as Mr. Chang was heard to say.
Persons: panna, Chang, You’ve, Ko, Le Bernardins, Daniels, Jean, Georges, —, . Chang Locations: Tennessee
☆ These Are the Best French Fries in New York City
  + stars: | 2023-09-07 | by ( Pete Wells | More About Pete Wells | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: 1 min
There are many good things to eat at Libertine, a new French bistro in the West Village that I reviewed this week. “We’re not serving fries,” Cody Pruitt, one of the owners, told Pamela Vachon of Resy. “You can get fries anywhere.”Maybe that’s true. We want fries that, once you’ve eaten the first one, dominate your consciousness until they are gone. Fewer than 20 restaurants in New York put out fries like that.
Persons: “ We’re, ” Cody Pruitt, Pamela Vachon, Resy, Fries Locations: New York
☆ Restaurant Review: All New York Bistros Steal. Libertine Steals From the Right Places.
  + stars: | 2023-09-05 | by ( Pete Wells | More About Pete Wells | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
There is a type of New York bistro that people like because it reminds them of other New York bistros. Some of the older examples of this type were built in imitation of actual places in the real France, but some of the younger ones didn’t go that far away for inspiration. They may evoke fond memories of French meals, but most of those French meals were eaten in dining rooms built by Keith McNally. Every once in a while, though, we get a New York bistro where you can catch the flavors of France. I knew Libertine was one of them as soon as I tasted the oeufs mayonnaise.
Persons: didn’t, niçoise, Keith McNally Locations: York, France, New York
☆ Restaurant Review: A Postcard to Chinatown, Mailed from the Lower East Side
  + stars: | 2023-07-25 | by ( Pete Wells | More About Pete Wells | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
Potluck Club opened last summer on Chrystie Street on the Lower East Side — outside the old boundaries of Chinatown, in an area where younger Chinese businesses sidle up against tattoo parlors, oyster bars and candlelit cocktail lounges with disguised speakeasy entrances. Given all the threats facing Chinatown, Potluck Club could have come across as sentimental or wistful, but it’s not. It isn’t a great restaurant, but it knows how to have a good time. Just past that is a display of movie posters from the golden age of Hong Kong and Taiwanese cinema. A mural celebrates “Shaolin Popey,” the 1994 slapstick martial arts movie featuring two ass-kicking boy monks.
Persons: it’s, Shaw Organizations: Potluck Locations: Chinatown, Hong Kong
☆ Restaurant Review: Mischa’s $29 Hot Dog Is Obnoxious. It’s Also Lovable.
  + stars: | 2023-07-18 | by ( Pete Wells | More About Pete Wells | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
“I think my job is to make things that no one else would make,” Mr. Stupak told an interviewer not long ago. Today, with Victoria Blamey between gigs and Wylie Dufresne making pizza, Mr. Stupak may be the last chef in New York who regularly tries to bend reality as if it were ganache. The “deviled egg floating island” is neither. It’s a meringue cylinder with a dome of creamed yolk on top and an unsweetened crème anglaise around the base. You don’t get the mustardy sharpness of a real deviled egg or the sweetness of a real floating island, but it’s fine because the whole dish is really just an excuse to eat trout roe.
Persons: Mr, Stupak, El, Stupak’s, Mischa, Victoria Blamey, Wylie Dufresne, don’t Locations: Alinea, Chicago, Empellón, New York
☆ Restaurant Review: For Striking Malaysian Food, Follow the Chickens
  + stars: | 2023-07-11 | by ( Pete Wells | More About Pete Wells | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
Poached chickens and roasted chickens dangle in the window of Hainan Chicken House on Eighth Avenue in Sunset Park, Brooklyn. Scattered among the plain white tiles on the dining-room walls are other tiles printed with images of chickens. Hainan Chicken House is dedicated to Hainanese chicken rice, a dish with ancient origins on Hainan Island in southern China. The owners of Hainan Chicken House are Malaysian New Yorkers, and it is the Malaysian version of chicken rice that they serve, along with curry laksa, mee goreng and a few other classics of the cuisine. What is called the House Hainan Chicken at Hainan Chicken House comes to the table wrapped in paper, hawker style, and sealed by a sticker printed with an image of a chicken.
Persons: Hainanese, mee goreng, cleaver Organizations: Chicken House, Eighth, Malaysian, Yorkers, Chicken Locations: Sunset Park , Brooklyn, Hainan, China, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia, Malaysian
☆ Restaurant Review: Raf’s Conjures Swirling Abundance from a Wood-Fired Oven
  + stars: | 2023-07-04 | by ( Pete Wells | More About Pete Wells | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
Her elegantly narrow sliver of torte plays a dark-chocolate filling against a darker chocolate glaze. More surprisingly, she has finally figured out what to do with white chocolate: It is caramelized and made into a dense pudding that looks a bit like a cappuccino, and tastes more like one than whatever it is white chocolate usually tastes like. The kitchen is at the end of the room, where cooks slide pans in and out of the mouth of the oven in a gleaming wall of white tile. Follow New York Times Cooking on Instagram, Facebook, YouTube, TikTok and Pinterest. Get regular updates from New York Times Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice.
Persons: Mick Organizations: New York Times, Facebook, YouTube
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