The ravenous came for a taste of home in a dish of spicy fried beef or steamed fish head. It was opening night in Hong Kong at Return Home Hunan, a well-known chain from mainland China trying to wedge into the city’s competitive food scene. Huang Haiying, the restaurant’s founder, greeted customers in a bright red suit while waiters handed out red envelopes stuffed with coupons. Hong Kong is a difficult place to open a restaurant these days. But restaurant owners from mainland China, facing their own challenges at home, see an opening.

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Persons: chiles, Huang Haiying, Ms, Huang, “ We’ll, ” Organizations: Return Home Locations: Hong Kong, Return Home Hunan, China