After he closed Cyrus, the Healdsburg, Calif., restaurant for which he’d earned two Michelin stars, in 2012, it took the chef Douglas Keane a decade to scout the dream locale for his new restaurant. Mr. Keane finally landed last year at a former prune-packing plant overlooking vineyards where the Russian River snakes through the Alexander Valley. Those vineyards are not in Healdsburg, Sonoma County’s unofficial gastronomic headquarters, but eight miles north in blink-and-you’ll-miss-it Geyserville. “Geyserville is real, rural wine country: Farmers are out at 5 a.m.,” said the 52-year-old chef on what drew him to the town. The whole town may be just two blocks of Wild West-looking storefronts, but its charms take an entire weekend to uncover.

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Persons: Cyrus, he’d, Douglas Keane, Keane, ” Organizations: Michelin Locations: Calif, Alexander, Healdsburg, Sonoma