New York’s Peking duck enthusiasts have had reason to be on edge lately. The restaurant is expected to survive, but it probably won’t reopen until this summer. The fire followed the Covid closings, when Peking duck — almost the definition of a restaurant dish — was impossible to find. And while it is nice to have a new place to eat zha jiang mian and jiaozi, not to mention cumin lamb and crab-flavored fish, the most impressive item on the menu is the Peking duck. I don’t know another restaurant in the city that clears the classic Peking duck hurdles — all the fine points of roasting, carving and serving — so consistently and satisfyingly.

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Persons: jiang mian Organizations: United Locations: Peking, DaDong, Beijing, China, Flushing , Queens, United States