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☆ ‘Becoming Karl Lagerfeld:’ A flattering sketch of the controversial designer
▼ + stars: | 2024-06-03 | by ( Caitlin Chatterton | ) edition.cnn.com time to read: +7 min

In “Becoming Karl Lagerfeld” he is brooding, combative and ambitious, sure — but we are equally encouraged to root for him. Despite Dietrich’s protestations, the creators of “Becoming Karl Lagerfeld” seem to side with their muse. Parisian fashion in the 1970s was, “Becoming Karl Lagerfeld” suggests, a scene broadly gatekept by a handful of squabbling men. "Becoming Karl Lagerfeld" intends to plunge the viewer into the heart of 1970s Paris, Monaco and Rome, to "follow the formidable blossoming of this complex and iconic personality," say the show notes. “Becoming Karl Lagerfeld” is, stylistically, a luxurious tribute to ‘70s flair: gorgeous to look at and offering an aggressively humanized look at some of fashion’s biggest names.

Persons: CNN —, Karl Lagerfeld, Daniel Brühl, Jacques de Bascher, Théodore Pellerin, “, ”, Kaiser Karl, Bascher, —, Yves Saint Laurent, Arnaud Valois, King, King Louis XIV, Lagerfeld, Caesar Flickerman, Stanley, Chuck Bass, Ed Westwick, Chanel, Jean, Claude Sauer, Gaby Aghion, Agnès Jaoui, Karl Lagerfeld ”, Saint Laurent, fawning, ” Karl Lagerfeld, couturier Pierre Balmain, ullstein, Marlene Dietrich, Sunnyi Melles, Dietrich, –, Charles Frederick, Worth, ” Claire Wilcox, ” Worth, Caroline Dubois, Abigail Joseph, — Louis XIV, Joseph, Pierre Larousse’s, Schiaparelli, de Organizations: CNN, Hulu, Metropolitan Museum of Art, German, London’s, Albert Museum, ”, Jour, Disney, Peterborough Express ”, Leitrim Advertiser, Dior, Balmain, Givenchy Locations: France, Chloé, Paris, Monaco, Rome, Worth, Peterborough

☆ Paris Fashion Week: Fashion, feminism and a fake Kate Moss
▼ + stars: | 2024-03-06 | by ( Alice Pfeiffer | ) edition.cnn.com time to read: +15 min

Pascal Le Segretain/Getty ImagesEqually at Rabanne, tartan blazers were given a grungier edge with leather-trimmed sleeves and fasteners. The rise of ‘Les People’Traditionally, showing interest in celebrities (“Les people” in Parisian slang) was a big no-no amongst the proudly snobby French fashion press. For busy women, multitasking women, women who can. Pascal Le Segretain/Getty ImagesStockman-style coats in colored, patent and soft leather were everywhere at Chloé, as were thigh-high boots and wafting, chiffon dresses. Pascal Le Segretain/Getty ImagesTraditional preppy skirt suits were given an edge with "Miss Dior" emblazoned in a graffiti style scrawling.

Persons: Saint Laurent, —, Wim Wenders, “, ” Balmain’s, Ester Manas, Nina Ricci, Kate Moss, Denise Ohnona, Serre, Arnel Dela, Alessandro Vigilante, ”, Coco, Kroes, Pascal Le Segretain, Chemena, Sienna Miller, Gaby Aghion, preppy Kristin Scott Thomas, Miu Miu, Farida Khelfa, Carine, Julia Roitfeld, Victoria Beckham, Anna, Pat Cleveland, Jerry Hall, Georgia Jagger, Kiernan Shipka, Georgia May Jagger, Julien de Rosa, ’ ’, Charles de Vilmorin, Aldama, Loewe, Dior ” —, Jackie O, Salma Hayek, Kim Kardashian, Naomi Campbell, Penelope Cruz, Hari Nef, Emily Ratajkowski, Victor Aubry, Sipa, JM Haedrich, Alexandre Maras, Louise Trotter, Sophie Abriat, Valentino, Givenchy, Laurent, Demna, BFRND, scupltor, Jaanisoo, Rémy Brière, Nicolas Di Felice, Louis Sullivan, Justin Shin, McQueen, Seán, Ib Kamara’s, Nicolas Ghesquière, Louis Vuitton, Stockman, Jonas Gustavsson, Coco Chanel, Casey Cadwallader's, Albert York, Dior, Victor Virgile, Kristin Scott Thomas, Miu, Olivier Rousteing, Ik Aldama, Chloe —, Miller's, Arnold Jerocki, Filippo Fior, Gonzalo Fuentes, Thierry Chesnot, Ester Manas's Organizations: CNN, Paris, Paris CNN —, Eiffel, Saint Laurent Museum, Chloé, Victoria, Getty, Loewe, Dior, Monde, Saint Laurent, The Washington Post Locations: Paris, Trocadero, British, Deauville, Normandy, Mugler, Chloé, Georgia, AFP, Balenciaga, Chanel, Estonian, Courrèges, Dior

☆ There’s a New (Old) It Girl in Paris
▼ + stars: | 2024-03-01 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

For years the Chloé Girl was effectively another, more branded, version of the It Girl. I can’t think of another label that has such an imaginary person, rather than a logo, to embody it. That Chloé Girl is redolent of youth and energy; of freedom and romping in the sun-kissed daisy fields. She is a little bit hippie, a little bit rocker, a little bit romantic and a lot insouciant. And although that version of the Chloé Girl had been absent from fashion for awhile, on Thursday in Paris Chemena Kamali, the new creative director of Chloé, brought her back.

Persons: Gaby Aghion, Karl Lagerfeld, Phoebe Philo, Stevie Nicks, Jane Birkin, Kate Moss, Kamali, Chloé Locations: Paris

☆ ‘Mood of the Moment: Gaby Aghion & the House of Chloé’ Review: Style in the Sands of Time
▼ + stars: | 2024-01-13 | by ( Laura Jacobs | ) www.wsj.com time to read: 1 min

Installation view Photo: Jewish Museum, NYNew YorkThere she is, in an early ’40s photograph that fills an entire wall—a young woman facing into an Egyptian wind, her eyes narrowed, her dark hair blowing behind her. And there she is again, filling another wall, but this time lying on the ground in a desert near Alexandria, head turned away and eyes closed. Gaby Aghion (née Hanoka) loved the desert and the beach. She loved sand—its shifting, flowing habit; its colors cream and white, tan and taupe, beiges inflected with pink, peach and gray.

Persons: Gaby Aghion Organizations: Jewish, NY Locations: York, Alexandria

☆ In Chloé Show, an Unseen Legacy With Quiet Jewish Roots
▼ + stars: | 2023-10-20 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | Max Lakin | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +2 min

The exhibition seeks to foreground Aghion at the brand, repositioning Chloé as a historically important fashion name and giving the museum a pop culture edge. Do you think this is a teachable moment about cultural preconceptions, an effort by the museum to reach a new audience, or both? The Jewish Museum has mounted art-historically important exhibitions, though as you say, infrequently about fashion (their first was a buoyant Isaac Mizrahi survey in 2016). It’s rare for one show to focus on a single ready-to-wear brand such as Chloé. Yet that’s what the Jewish Museum is doing, and it suggests that brand has something very important to say.

Persons: Vanessa Friedman, Max Lakin, VANESSA FRIEDMAN Fashion, Isaac Mizrahi, Aghion, — sidelong, “ Ralph Lauren ”, Ralph Lifshitz, FRIEDMAN, Gaby Aghion Organizations: The New York Times, Met, Brooklyn Museum, Fashion Institute of Technology, Jewish Locations: New York, Jewish

☆ Everyone Thought He Had Made the Famous Gown. It Was His Wife.
▼ + stars: | 2023-08-16 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | More About Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

That will be followed in November by “Iris van Herpen. All of which should add up to a potent reminder of the breadth and contributions of women designers — not to mention a spur for the future. They decided to team up, but the Covid-19 pandemic intervened, postponing the show to this year. The result showcases the work of about 70 designers held in the Costume Institute’s collection, which stretches from the turn of the 20th century to today and includes names both famous (Jeanne Lanvin, Claire McCardell) and little known (Augusta Bernard, Madeleine & Madeleine). And it is a reminder that once upon a time, the industry looked very different.

Persons: Gaby Aghion, ”, “ Iris van Herpen, —, Mellissa Huber, Karen Van Godtsenhoven, Huber, Van Godtsenhoven, Andrew Bolton, Jeanne Lanvin, Claire McCardell, Augusta Bernard, Madeleine Organizations: Jewish Museum, Institute Locations: New York, Paris

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