There are many good things to eat at Libertine, a new French bistro in the West Village that I reviewed this week. “We’re not serving fries,” Cody Pruitt, one of the owners, told Pamela Vachon of Resy. “You can get fries anywhere.”Maybe that’s true. We want fries that, once you’ve eaten the first one, dominate your consciousness until they are gone. Fewer than 20 restaurants in New York put out fries like that.

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Persons: “ We’re, ” Cody Pruitt, Pamela Vachon, Resy, Fries Locations: New York